Roy Stuart Surfboards

Building the Dragon board a 13'9" wooden pintail surfboard

2012-02-02T08:28:00.001+13:00

Blocks and frames being assembled for the second internal frame panel on the 13'9" Dragon board.

Some more Ghost 12 action:

The ledge at Manu Bay on the 12 foot Ghost pintail.

2012-02-01T08:25:00.003+13:00

The ledge at Manu Bay on the 12 foot Ghost pintail, short and sweet.

"In a flash I realised I'd been here before.. the endless lefts, where herds of headless beauty queens still roam free..."

http://www.captaingoodvibes.com/CaptainGoodvibesJuly1980Strip.html

Manu Bay Raglan: Roy Stuart and Craig Hughes 'share' a wave.

2012-01-28T09:53:00.001+13:00

Craig drops in, cuts back behind me and then... splat!

http://youtu.be/DJ_YhePF6_E

Meanwhile...

Surfing at Manu Bay, Raglan, New Zealand.

2012-01-25T09:37:00.003+13:00

Surfing the ghost 12 at Manu Bay, Raglan, New Zealand. Buy your surf photos online. nzsurfpix.com :: Silas Hansen

Mighty Water Dragon part (2): building and riding the 13'9" Dragon Board pintail.

2012-01-23T21:42:00.002+13:00

Here's the third of four Dragon Board panels being made today:

Mighty Water Dragon: building and riding the 13'9" Dragon Board pintail.

2012-01-22T14:49:00.004+13:00

We are approaching the Year of the Dragon, which is when we build Dragon Boards.

This coming year of the Dragon is the first one since 1964 which is a Water Dragon year, so it is exceptionally auspicious for a Dragon surfboard.

The previous Dragon Board was built during the year 2000.

At 13'9' long and 23 to 24 inches wide the Dragon board has a length to width ratio of 7:1, and with a low rocker ( only 7 inches overall) it relies more on displacement based lift ( buoyancy ) than planing lift than most boards during the transition between paddling and surfing.

Dimensions are
length 13'9"
Width 24"
Thickness 2 & 5/8"
Weight ( projected) 55 pounds
Volume 90 litres approx
Rails 50/50 elliptical ( continuous )
Rocker circular arc 7 inches overall

The original board proved itself to be an exceptionally good and reliable performer over a wide range of conditions, from knee high to triple overhead reef waves. it took a bit of getting used to taking off on waves over head high on such a long and heavy board ( the original board was 65 to 70 pounds in weight) but the beast never let me down and survived some drops which I thought were impossible, so confidence was gained through experience.

This board will be a tad wider, thicker and lighter than the original, but still has beefed up scantlings to keep it heavier than it would be with my regular schedule. Planking is 10mm instead of 7 to 8mm, blocking extends into the board further ( also required for the 'pinched' or elliptical rail section) and there is more solid blocking in the tail area.

The extra weight means more effort is required to carry and paddle the board, but that is more than offset by the fact that it is there when it is needed i.e. at all times when riding the wave and particularly in strong offshore or bumpy conditions.

Riding the Dragon was a unique experience and I'm looking forward with slight trepidation to doing it again.

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/12/building-dragon-board-article-by-roy.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/12/designing-modern-olo-boards-which-work.html

The Great Pretender

2012-01-13T18:39:00.001+13:00

The tubular finned 9'5" pretender:

Grace Avenue on the Ghost 12

2012-01-12T14:26:00.000+13:00

I slept in and missed the morning offshore breeze, but found a sheltered spot at grace avenue for a couple of lefts.

Hollow wooden surfboard riding: Ghost 12

2012-01-10T20:08:00.000+13:00

Here's te Future Primitive Ghost 12 at Main Beach Mount Maunganui in New Zealand's Bay of Plenty today, the wind will turn offshore tomorrow but unfortunately oil from the wrecked cargo ship Rena ( which has just broken in two on Astrolabe reef) is due to hit the beach this evening.

Tubular thruster fins on the 9'5' 'Pretender' HWS

2012-01-05T14:21:00.004+13:00

Here's the latest version of the 'tubular thruster' fin setup which we first invented during 2005.

These fins are Paulownia with epoxy resin and graphite over polyester cloth, the first prototypes were made from plumbing pipe.

No fin boxes the fins are set into the board

There's only about 1/8" of toe in on the side fins.

I had a similar setup a few years ago on a pintail and it felt really good but i thought it would do better on a roundtail so here goes... also added about 3/8" of concave through the middle of the board, diminishing towards nose and tail.

It is quite duiffeent to a thruster in a couple of ways at least, the main one being the large amount of vertical lift it produces, another is the difference in cantfrom outwards to inwards.

The feeling is soft and effortless on the roll axis and extremely powerful on the pitch axis. There's enough horizontal wing area to relieve a large proportion of the water pressure off the hull, so the board is ridden off the fins once it gets going reasonably fast. Thrusters are crisper and grabbier rail to rail. Overall it doesn't feel very similar to a thruster.

Another difference is that whereas the thruster responds predominantly to rail to rail pumping the tunnel setup responds to vertical pumping. That's because the thruster has toe in whereas the tunnel has vertical toe in i.e lift in relation to the bottom.With the prototype (which had a smaller 4 inch diameter tunnel) one had to give a couple of pumps to get the board up on the wing. The angle between the bottom and the wing is slight but it's a bit like how the thruster doesn't like being ridden with both side fins working equally ( drag from toe in) there's a transition speed where the hull in the fin area and the tunnel are working equally, one needs to get over that speed and/or monetarily reduce the load there to let the tunnel take over. this latest board has more than double the lift which the the prototype has so transition will happen sooner, at lower speeds.

That probably won't give you a good idea of how it actually feels, my powers of explanation can't compare with direct experience.

Wolf in pink clothing: Ghost 12

2012-01-03T14:30:00.002+13:00

Here the Future Primitive Ghost 12 gives a taste of its exceptional and effortless section making ability. The board reacts instinctively and with great subtlety to changes in wave shape.

Riding the Ghost is quite a big change from the Earl, with an extra foot and a half in length, three inches less in width,. three quarters of an inch less in thickness, 3 pounds less in weight and 35 litres less in volume.

I'm going to stay on this board for a while in the hope of some cyclone swell size over the next two months.

After riding the Earl I had to find the sweet spot for taking off on the Ghost as part of the dialling in process, here an adjustment aft during take off results in a stall, and the wave was nearly lost before it started, but all turned out well in the end.

Ghost 12's were my mainstay or 'go to' boards from 1997 to 2004, during which time I destroyed two made in balsa, one solid one chambered. I was surprised to calculate yesterday that it's seven years since I've ridden one ... an extra 28 pounds of rider weight seems to be ok.

Christmas Eve Hart st, Mount Maunganui on the Earl wooden surfboard

2011-12-29T09:31:00.001+13:00

Here the versatility of the Eearl 10-6 can be seen as it navigates lumpy onshore conditions on Christmas eve. at Hart st in Mount Maunganui, Bay of Plenty New Zealand. In spite of the fact that the weather was sunny, the surf was up and it was a holdiay in a surf town of over 100,000 people no one else was out taking advantage of the swell.

Future Primitive Ghost 11 footer complete.

2011-12-28T17:46:00.001+13:00

Here's the Future Primitive Ghost 11 foot surfboard prior to being launched for the first time.

Specifications:
length: 11feet
Width: 23 inches
Thickness: 1 & 7/8 inches
Weight: 20.5 pounds
Volume: 63 litres approximately
Fin:11 inch cutaway elliptical plan shape 'spitfire' with leading edge tubercules
Rocker: circular tail/elliptical nose
Bottom shape: slightly concave
Rails: Continuous 50/50 elliptical 'pinched'
Construction: parallel profile paulownia wood
Hardware: stainless steel leash plug and ss hand operated vent.

Three Future Primitives, from left to right: Ghost 11, Ghost 12 and Earl 10-6.

Elliptical planform spitfire fins and stalling behaviour.

2011-12-20T22:50:00.007+13:00

The revolution' spitfire fins which are the usual subject of spitfire fin tests have a few problems when used as examples of elliptical planform fins.

One is that they are not even close to an elliptical planform, the tip are in planform is way too tnarrow and is almost pointed.

Another is the thickness distribution, which is not elliptical. in that respect it follopws the spitfire wing whose thickness distribution was also not elliptical ( see the picture below). The revolution spitfire fin and the spitfire wing itself were both too thin in the tip area. this encourages tip stalling and is not the fault of the elliptical planshape, which as has been pointed out was not even used,

The revolution spitfire fin is also markedly raked, which is another deviation from the true elliptical planform.

Therevolution fin is also exceptionally thin overall in chord ratio as well as being too thin in the tip, this reduces the angle of attack capability of the entire fin and the tip in particular.

In short the revolution spitfire fin's stalling characteristics are not a fair test of the elliptical planform fin's capabilities.

Wing twist used to correct the poor thickness distribution:

With my elliptical planform fins the thickness distribution is either elliptical or slightly thicker in the tip area than a true elliptical thickness distribution, I also make sure that the chord ratio is not unusally high, this means that the fin panel used must be thicker than is usual.

http://thoughtality.com/the-spitfire-wing

If there is a tendency for elliptical planform wings to stall at the tip first, then it is utterly stupid to make the thickness to chord ratio at the tip less than that of the rest of the wing i.e. a thickness to chord ratio which diminished towards the tip.... which is exactly what was done with the spitfire wing AND the revolution 'spitfire fin'.

Although I have never experienced tip stall with my elliptical planform fins, I keep the thickness to chord ratio constant or increase it towards the tip, I do so because I've visualised the flow rather than by calculation.

I also move the position of the thickest part of the chord forward towards the tip, this also increases aoa capability and helps to prevent tip stall. Again I do this because I've visualised the flow rather than because of any tip stall problem.

The addition of leading edge tubercules makes the elliptical planform less relevant from a drag point of view but it is still a good planform in my opinion because it is upright and also because it keeps excessive area out of the tip where it inhibits rail to rail movement.

Here is an essay on elliptical lift distribution:

http://www.djaerotech.com/dj_askjd/dj_questions/ellthoughts.html

Besides, raked greenough fins feel gutless and vague.

Stainless steel leash plug HWS installation in Future Primitive 'Ghost' 11 ft surfboard

2011-12-14T19:33:00.001+13:00

This leash plug will always stay secure!

Fins for the Pretender 9'5"

2011-12-12T22:16:00.002+13:00

Paulownia cored graphite tunnel plus side fins for the new pretender 9'5"

http://www.olosurfer.com/images/vortex%20fins.jpg

http://www.olosurfer.com/images/squid%20surfboard%20with%20tunnel%20by%20Roy%20Stewart.jpg

World's greatest surfboard designs: Future Primitive Ghost 11

2011-12-11T13:50:00.000+13:00

Setting a 'whalebump' tuberculed leading edge spitfire fin into a new future primitive Ghost paulownia wood surfboard.

Designing post modern olo boards which work.

2011-12-06T19:24:00.005+13:00

With shapes like the displacement tailed pintails for example, the area and volume is drawn out into a longer board with a finer tail. Because the tail can sink the board behaves like a shorter board when required and yet still has the length of rail when it is wanted.

Generally speaking boards which are designed purely as planing craft emphasise short wide tailed hulls, with the planing are packed into a shape which is as close to a 3:1rectangle as possible while still allowing control. Displacement hulls on the other hand try to distribute volume over as long a length as possible. My pintailed boards are hybrid planing/displacement hulls and thus they are based on a different set of principles. I try to get as much width and length as possible with the minimum of thickness and area.

Regarding very long boards, my designs allow great length while maintaining good control, other designs don't alllow this, so in a sense I'm doing it because I can... but there are well known advantages to a very long board i.e. paddling wave catching and section making ability. The reason ( or one of them) why very long boards are not built often by other shapers is that they are stuck in the planing hull theory mode and such boards in long lengths become uncontrollable. Pure displacement hull boards like the ancient olo are also very difficult to control. as Tom Wegener and others have found out, to their apparent delight

. I've developed a good perhaps even perfect formula and this allows greater freedom regarding length, as well as greater joy in the water.

Earl 10'6"

2011-12-06T17:30:00.010+13:00

Here the delightfully obedient and easy to ride displacement tail feature of the Future Primitive series surfboards can be seen in action during a bottom turn.

Displacement tails are unique to Roy Stewart surfboards.

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/01/planing-lift-and-displacement-lift-in.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2009/08/displacement-tail-extreme-pintail.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2008/12/surfboard-design-workshop-displacement.html

Mount Maunganui Surf Photo by Roy Stuart | 12:00 am 1 Jul 1999

2011-11-12T19:09:00.000+13:00

Mount Maunganui Surf Photo by Roy Stuart | 12:00 am 1 Jul 1999

A postmodern surfboard fin

2011-11-10T19:39:00.002+13:00

Postmodernism has one of four typological world views.These four world views are the Postmodern-ironist, which sees truth as socially constructed; the scientific-rational, in which truth is found through methodical, disciplined inquiry; the social-traditional, in which truth is found in the heritage of American and Western civilization; and the neo-romantic, in which truth is found through attaining harmony with nature and/or spiritual exploration of the inner self.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postmodern_art

Seeka's Makaha ride report continued

2011-10-31T17:04:00.003+13:00

Here's the latest from artist and surfboard builder 'Seeka', who built himself a beautiful modified 'Makaha' singlefin .

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/02/seekas-new-10-pintail.html

"Last week i went for a surf and finally got to tackle some doh smoothness. i had a stack of waves(as one does on a hollow timber surfcraft) and had just made the mammoth paddle back out to see the next set approach. by now i was fairly stuffed but this set looked like the biggest so far. so i dug deep and made a beeline for the horizon. the first wave peaked up and started to peel & i was just in the right spot to take off. however, due to my exhaustion and close proximity to the set wave i buried the tail and did a quick swing around. by now the wave was on me and i had no forward momentum. the wave picked me up and i attempted a few paddles but still didn't have enough speed for a take off. by now i was at the top and on a one way trip over the falls. then i got that weightless feeling so seeing as i was commited to a beating i may as well make the most of it, i jumped to a crouched position on the very nose of the 10ftr, grabbed both rails and stayed low...fdid the full on elevator drop of about 12 feet, slightly leaned to the left and put my faith in the log...it stayed true and took off around the bottom of the wash at which point i stood up and back to the sweetspot and carried on at max velocity down the line. i have a new found respect for my board."

Future Primitive 'Ghost' 11 foot pintailed hybrid single finned planing hull.

2011-10-27T16:42:00.000+13:00

'Earl' half million dollar wooden surfboard by Roy Stuart

2011-10-24T19:03:00.005+13:00

Earl 10'6" luxury wooden surfboard Price: US$471,000

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/10/earl-106-ride-report.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/03/earl-106-hws-pintail-singlefin-resin.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/07/earl-106.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/07/roy-stuart-surfboards-earl-empress-wood.html

A pair of tubercule fins ( with thanks to the Humpbacked Whale)

2011-10-10T18:55:00.000+13:00

A pair of paulownia tuberculed spitfire cutaway fins, made from a 6 layer multi directional lamination. One is for the new Future Primitive 'Ghost' 11 footer, the other will fit a fin box installed on a Duke 9'3" called 'The Duchess' because it's been built by Sandy who is a member of the fairer sex..

Baron surfboard by Roy Stuart featured in Gafencu Men

2011-10-02T19:54:00.001+13:00

"Fashioned using a flexible, hollow torsion-box assembly, the result has a distinctly low thickness-to-length ratio, ensuring an exceptional ride set low to the water."

http://www.igafencu.com/gm/content_en.php?pid=1187&is=43&cat=13

Earl 10'6" ride report

2011-10-02T11:19:00.004+13:00

Heading to the beach at Mount Maunganui's Main Beach after testing the tubercule finned Earl 10'6". The verdict on both the fin and the board: 10/10. The leading edge tubercules on the spitfire feel fantastic. The difference is somewhat analagous to paddling with the fingers together compared with having them apart...with the tuberculed leading edge ( i.e fingers apart) there's greatly improved control response, less drag and higher lift.

Dimensions:
Length 10'6"
Width 27"
Thickness 2.75"
Volume 100 litres ( approx)
Weight 28 pounds
Lower rail radius 1" circular
Upper rail radius 1.75" elliptical or 'pinched'
Bottom mild concave
Rocker circular arc
Fin 11 inch cutaway spitfire with leading edge tubercules

We got some nice HD video clips with the 600D as there were some speedy sections to race, I've previewed them on the camera but we are waiting for a new computer to arrive via my son in order to deal with the large HD files. The camera battery ran out just at the end of the second session so Emma took a few stills shots just as I was coming in with the EOS1000.

More Earl:

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/03/earl-106-hws-pintail-singlefin-resin.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/07/earl-106.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/07/roy-stuart-surfboards-earl-empress-wood.html

Stainless steel leash plugs

2011-09-29T08:52:00.000+13:00

Leash plugs from knurled stainless steel pipe, available for $40 from roy@olosurfer.com:

Pretender 9'5" concave

2011-09-29T08:40:00.001+13:00

The new Pretender 9'5" round tail revealing the single concave bottom which is laminated into the paulownia panels during construction

The concave creates a matching convex or dome in the deck, ensuring that the rider's feet are always the same distance from the hull's wetted surface.

Baron surfboard by Roy Stuart

2011-09-11T21:56:00.000+12:00

Baron defies conventional design wisdom to achieve exceptional 40mph plus performance and a smooth magic carpet like ride.

Baron's distinctive military 'Art Brut' tangential lines and voluptuous curvilinear forms are a classic example of artistic form following functional purpose.

Length: 12 feet.
Construction: Empress wood. Flexible, hollow torsion box, creating a resonant wave vehicle: a 'live' instrument which harmonises and communicates with the rider.
Fins: Annular wing tunnel with hyper flexible boomerang fin. The world's most hydrodynamically advanced fin system.
Volume: 155 litres
Reserve buoyancy: 135 litres.
Price: US$528,000

Gordon and friends with the Ghost at Auckland beaches…

2011-09-02T22:33:00.000+12:00

Gordon 02 December 2007:
Thanks Kat for bringing the board this way, it definitely has a WOW factor when you see it up close; the rails and the fin are especially detailed and the whole thing flows nicely from its tip through its dramatic rocker shape to the extreme pintail. Roy has a genuine talent for working with wood and he’s created something really beautiful with this board.

Ghost 13

Surfing a 13’ Olo board for the first time was quite an experience, having picked Kat up and making our way to Muriwai the sense of vague nervousness began to increase. I really had no idea as to what I was in for but I was excited about the opportunity to try something new. The waves were just about the perfect size for a first time, S2S had called it 2-3’ with the occasional 4 footer and it was probably fairly accurate although the 4 footers were fairly infrequent. Having dealt with the obligatory photo session the moment of truth arrived and the real excitement began.

The lowdown from a layman’s perspective
The board paddles really easily and the ‘rather pronounced’ rocker gives you quite a lot of lift over smaller whitewash. Rolling it is quite easy on the bigger waves and the more forward you are the less likely it seemed to me that I would get whacked in the head by it. It’s really nice to sit so high in the water and you feel your making good time paddling, aside from the rolling and the typical Muriwai reform you’re out the back in no time at all. I discovered that nothing happens on the spur of the moment with a board like this- there’s no such thing as a quick spin around for a late takeoff, and even if you sit right on the tail it takes awhile to bring the front around. Forward planning seemed like a good idea and I was to discover that getting caught ½ way round can be fairly exciting.

The first wave put a smile on my face for sure, Paddling in fairly early on a head high peaky wave I felt like I was getting hung up in the lip for a moment (could have been because the waves were a bit lumpy) and then the board seemed to release and I was off, leaning to the left a little and the rail had me shooting towards the open face. Initially it felt like the board had a mind of its own but it didn’t take long to get dialed in a bit and my confidence increased to the point that I had no hesitation taking off on a few set waves. You can move around quite a bit on the board and that’s pretty helpful on the double up inside reforms that seem to frequent Muriwai on the outgoing tide; There was more than one “Oh SHOOT” moment when the wave wedged out underneath me and I was faced with a steep drop with the tip buried in what was quite possibly very shallow water but a quick shuffle to the tail seemed to be enough to bring the nose back up and we carried on with my heart beating wildly nonetheless- quite a rush. The last thing I wanted to do was snap the beast in the shorebreak and I didn’t want to get catapulted by it either.

I was stoked to get a couple of quite long waves from right out the back, the board links the tricky sections together easily and it doesn’t bounce around in whitewater sections either. I’d hesitate to say that I ‘threw down a few turns’ but I felt like I was busy all the time and it’s easy enough to bring the board back around to the curl again, The rails/rocker do all the work so it seems like the harder you lean the board over the faster it turns and I never felt bogged down at all.

I was stoked when I first held the board to realise it is quite light considering its size, because I have to admit I was pretty wary about the possibility of surfing it without a leg/calf-rope. There was no problem with that at all, although the surf wasn’t all that big bit it’s not much heavier than a ‘traditional’ or older mal. I reckon the only thing you’d need to worry about would be copping the sharp end of the pintail to the head if it came shooting back quickly- maybe that’s why Roy wears a helmet.

All in all I had a blast on my first excursion and it’s awesome to have an opportunity to be a part of something like this, thanks again Roy for sharing your board with us and to Spud for making the suggestion. There are a whole lot of people who are going to have a whole lot of fun. I’m really keen to keep it a little while longer if people don’t mind to see if I can get out in something a bit more solid, I’ve got my fingers crossed for another swell like the one that came through last week. Here’s hoping J in the meantime I’ll get back to giving it a polish, I’ve attached a couple of photo’s of it, hopefully they show a bit of the detail in the board. It truly is a beauty.

Gordon 04 December 2007:

Today was fun, mate its a conversation starter, I’ve never had so many people talk to me about a surfboard before and its interesting how many either knew about the Hikoi already or are keen to follow it and already know quite a bit about hollow board building.

Adam Dec 8 2007 Tawharanui Beach:

Today the Hikoi moves to the east coast just north of Auckland at the Tawharanui Marine ParkOnce the board bag was opened and the board slid out I really got to appreciate just how big this was. Nearly twice the size in fact of the largest board I have surfed. I have to say it is truly beautiful. Not something you often say about boards made the standard way. Every inch of this just showed how much love and craftsmanship was put into its creation. The fin alone, which would befit a small boat had been hand crafted in the same wood grain as the rest of the board.

Already some of the surfers that were starting to arrive were asking questions and admiring both its stature and look. Most were surprised just how light it was for a board that size. It was about this point that a smile grew on my face as I realised “I am actually going to surf this!”

Gordon and friends at Tawharanui

Father Ted started to wax the board, the way he waxed it was almost with reverence and love, I had my suspicions that he really likes this board. He was using some of Roy’s organic wax which he had also donated. It is actually rather good and stickier than the commercial waxes I use. I am a convert so I will be ordering this off Roy in future.

What would have been a normally quick walk to the beach turned into something more like being celebrities as various people we passed stopped us to ask more questions. We got to the waters edge and checked how the surf was. Lully and small, but quite clean. The odd shoulder high wave but mostly waist high. Perfect I thought as I didn’t really want to have to push myself too hard with a board like this as I had no idea if I could turn it or control a thing this size.

I am sure there is an outboard motor fitted to that board as it paddles fast! It took a little longer for me to swim out to the line up with my camera in tow! After a few minutes the first set arrived so with camera ready Father Ted took of with ease, gliding down the line.

Gordon on Ghost 13

Some of the groms in the line up that had earlier been asking about the board, told us that they had been following the exploits on www.surf.co.nz, and seemed stoked to have met the Legendary Father Ted and Crystal Voyager (now re-branded AdamJ!) and were now part of a piece of New Zealand history.
Well it wasn’t long before it was my turn as Father Ted handed me the leash which I exchanged for my camera. After a quick crash course in operating it I started to paddle the board out a bit to get a feel for her. It really is quite easy to paddle but real hard to turn around for a wave as I found out when the first of the set waves arrived.

“Hmmm OK” I thought “I am going to have to plan ahead with this board!”

So I gradually got her to face the beach and waited for the next wave. It is strange to see so much wood in front of your (oh er missus!) as it looks more like a pier or jetty in front of you! It reminded me of surfing Brighton Pier! Well the next wave was upon me and I paddled for it, got up and promptly fell straight off again. Father Ted made it look easy but it was then that anything I had previously learnt did not apply to this board. As Kat said, it feels alive. Even sitting astride it felt different to standard boards, warmer and altogether very organic in nature which is quite comforting.

Not one to give up, I paddled back out (this board must have a motor, I have never paddled so fast!) and slowly turned the board around for the next wave.“Just one more wave” I said a number of times then finally got myself a small right hander and made the turn and was running the face. Stoked, with a big grin I finally got it to turn. I am not quite sure how, almost as if it did it by itself in pure frustration at me straight handing the earlier waves! I can only describe this board like an analogy to cars. It reminded me of a Rolls Royce, quiet, smooth, big, understated power and just the feel of it alone exudes quality.

It wasn’t too long before Father Ted took the helm once more . Again he showed how at ease he is with the board taking on a few more waves. Before long it was gone midday and it was time for us to leave.

It was a great experience and I am now even more respectful of Roy and his creations and for his generosity at letting us try his board and in such a great way. I hope I get another chance to ride it and do a better job next time and get some more photos of what will become a legend in surfing in New Zealand.

Gordon Dec 13 2007 Bigger waves at Piha:

Once again it took about an hour to get in the water because I found myself talking to lots of the guys in the carpark and on the way down to the water’s edge about the board, it’s construction and the story behind the journey. One of the more telling comments was from a guy whom I see in the water a bit and I know he’s a competent surfer who says ‘that would be more suited to a smaller day wouldn’t it’, yea thanks buddy… just what I was needing to hear.

Gordon at Piha

The other comment from an older guy who looked me in the eye and said ‘you’re going to get smashed out there’ didn’t help much either. Funnily enough I overheard his son/younger friend ask him if it was too big for him and his comment was ‘NO! Its just not lined up properly’ (not lined up properly my ass) I mentioned a vague sense of nervousness in my first story about riding this board, well today it was back except it wasn’t vague at all – it was actually quite tangible.

Remembering Roy’s tip about cooling the board in the shorebreak before tightening the vent I sucked a deep breath and paddled out. It wasn’t too difficult, there’s quite a helpful little rip by the river and before too long I was out the back, a long way out the back.

So I find myself sitting out the back and I’m watching these quite nice inside waves breaking and there has been a bit of a lull so I’m thinking I should probably paddle back in a bit and pick one or two off, I’m about to do so when I glance back out to sea to see the eminent shadow of an approaching ‘plus set’ I almost throw my hip out of joint in my urgency to spin the olo around again so I can scurry over the lip of the first wave just in time before it breaks right on top of me, 3 more waves pass by and I decide that I definitely not going to go in a bit and pick of the nice inside waves. I haven’t got a death wish.
There was a pretty good gap between the larger sets so I had plenty of time to get myself into what I thought was a good takeoff spot and to do some of that other stuff that you sometimes find yourself doing when you’re by yourself and feeling unsure as to whether it was such a good idea or not, like praying that the experience doesn’t kill you. Its kinda funny because usually I’d have been frothing on the waves because I’d be happily riding a shortboard and thinking twice about the sets, even riding my 9 footer would have felt quite comfortable but the uncertainty of what was too come had me as nervous as hell.
A set was coming, what should I do? Paddle for the horizon again or pick up my balls and go for it…. paddle for the horizon was looking like a good option but I wouldn’t have been able to live it down if I didn’t go so I paddled like I meant it and as smooth as silk I was up and riding. The board slipped into the wave really nicely and there was no question of it nosediving, It felt like I was flying but I’ve got no idea if I was or not. The board was vibrating slightly under my feet as I raced around the first section and onto the open face where I was able to hold my line for a short time before the wave closed out in front of me before reforming and giving me quite a playful little face to ride in to the shore. I was laughing, more with relief than anything else… I was alive… I had so much adrenalin pumping through my body that I was shaking and I was stoked. I sat there on the inside for almost five minutes chuckling away to myself with a stupid grin on my face before turning the nose back to sea and paddling out for some more.
Once you’ve done it once it’s not so intense and it’s easier to get a few under your belt so some time passes, a couple of waves are caught and I’m feeling more comfortable and starting to think I’d better head in and get on with the rest of my working day and I’m thinking I should paddle a bit deeper and pick off one of the Bombs when it comes through, so I did. Now I’m not one to call the size of a wave by the size of the drop and it was probably only a 5’ wave but as I was dropping down the face I swear I wasn’t at the bottom of the wave and this 13 foot long olo board was stretched out full length on the face with plenty of room to spare at either end. I know this because the board did a strange thing- as I was paddling for the wave I wasn’t quite straight and I took the wave at just enough of an angle that it meant that the inside rail was quite keen to start the turning process as I was ½ way down the face. There was nothing I could do, the board turned itself giving me a grandstand view of the wave I’d taken off on and then proceeded to lock itself into position for the barrel. The board did it- I was just along for the ride, there’s something about the curve of the rocker and the rail and the fin and the tail and whatever else contributed to it but the board sliced into that face like a carving knife in a Christmas turkey. I’d had my doubts about it as a barrel riding board and had begun to think that it might be more suited to a wave like Waimea or Makaha Point (it was originally shaped for Hawaii after all) than Pipeline but now I’ve got to wonder whether in the right hands it just might tuck itself quite nicely in there as well. I’m really looking forward to that part of the journey.
I paddled in after that.

On my way home I stopped briefly at ‘freeride’ in Henderson and reluctantly dropped the board off to Jabes who is pretty keen to get it in the water and give it a good go. I hope he has as much fun with it as I’ve had and I can’t wait to see his shots and hear his stories. I’d be quite keen to hook up with him if he gets a chance to take it out in solid stuff again while he’s got it (just remember Jabes, close the vent before entering the water and open it when you exit the water). The torch has been passed again.

Thanks Roy for being a good sport, thanks for lending me your creation and letting me take it out for a spin. I’ve had a great time with it, I’m stoked to have been a part of the journey. This board rides and turns differently from any other board I’ve owned so you have to surf differently when you’re on it- its kinda like grass roots surfing, just waveriding like they used to do in the early days and it won’t appeal to everybody but I think there’s a pretty good chance that you’re onto something with your design, I’m sure the others who get to share in this Hikoi will come away feeling like they’ve been part of something special as well.

What’s that word the Hawaiian’s use…. ‘Aloha’

Travel and waves in Northland New Zealand with Hunty, Ghost and friends…

2011-09-02T14:19:00.003+12:00

Here's James 'Hunty' during the 2008 'Olo Hikoi' of New Zealand reporting from from Kaitaia about his time with the Ghost 13 footer.

Hunty reporting from Northland:

Hi every one the olo board is now in Northland.This is how the day’s events went down: it was up at 3 am for a 4 am departure from Waihi beach. After beating the Auckland city traffic my wife and I arrived at Jabes’ house not long after 6am to pick up the board(sorry for the early morning ambush Jabes, cheers for being rather sporting about it) and then we pushed on North.After hitting Whangarei I could contain myself no longer and had to stop at the information centre for a toilet stop and to pull the board out of the bag and admire its beauty, as well as giving my roof racks the once over which had been put through their paces by the board, and had developed a rather disturbing rattle which seemed to get a little bit louder the further north we went.

We carried on North and all went well until the south side of the Mangamuka gorge where old Bessy the Nissan developed an out of control shudder, pulling us up on the side of the road to find an distorted rear tire with a large bubble in it.
So it was out with the jack and into a Bathurst pitstop styled tyre change and away we went again,until I realised my sunnies were on the side of the road still (doooh).

Eventually we arrived home at around 1pm, and i was straight on the blower to two mates(Ali and Thompson) who had been anxiously awaiting my arrival in preparation for a surf mission with 13footofwood.They were straight around to check it out and we all took a moment to marvel at its stunningly good looks.We made the plans and set the wheels in motion for a surf on the west coast(90 mile beach) for the high tide, synchronized our watches and went about our daily chores until the time was right.
Okay before I get into the thick of it, unfortunately I must inform you all that I had no one to take any pictures of us in the water (which is probably for the best as the board has a bit of a learning curve) so you will have to wait till next time. I do have a camera that should get some ok shots, but after waking my wife up at 3 am to get away early, spending ages hunting for sunglasses in the gorge and a long trip. asking her to come and be photographer was pushing it a bit I thought.
Also from here on in I wont be directly naming places just generalising in the general area, this is not because I’m all secret squirrel, most of it’s in the guide, but I don’t believe it is my place to advertise places that other ppl who live here use and enjoy, and may or may not want advertised in any way shape or form. I hope people can understand that, and no doubt you will all know most of the places anyhow.
swell map was showing about a 1.5 meter or so swell with just over a two metre set wave face height and Easterlies so we were up for it. The only problem was how we were going to share the board amongst ourselves, naturally since I picked it up I was going first and we set a time of around 1/2 to 3/4 of an hour each on it.

Ok, so into my initial experience with the board. By my eye the waves were averaging around chest height with the odd bigger sets coming in, as usual the banks weren’t all that crash hot with some waves closing out but picking the correct wave could see you getting an ok ride before it shut down on you. The first things I noticed were how tight it felt paddling out in regards to turning, that big fin holds it in a straight line, and the other thing I noticed initially was how much the board flexed going over the top of a breaking wave on the paddle out and slapping the other side as it dropped over.
I had real trouble finding the correct sweet spot on the board and its looking as if it is a bit further forward than what you think in your mind it should be.

I was having my doubts before I caught my first wave about how well it would turn but they were put to rest once I got a wave, once on the move it seems to turn easy enough just not as tight a turning circle as what you might be used to on a short board but easy enough. Once the board jumps into life it seems to accelerate along the wave face and has a nice positive feel, just seems to extract what it needs…. I particularly enjoyed the acceleration of the board as you were coming into a close out section, as the face gets steeper the board seems to get a long set of legs and accelerates. I thought I would be a lot more nervous than I was catching the waves but that part of it didn’t seem to be a problem. I even took a couple of straight close out waves and it didn’t seem to me to be a problem, dropped down the face and straightened out as it shut down behind me. I did come off a couple of times and made the decision that I would go and get a helmet tomorrow.
Well today I really felt good on the board, had an absolute ball on it. Again with the close out factor on a few waves I decided to just go for it and straight lined down the face which was a bit nerve wracking on the first one as instinct was telling me I was heading for a spectacular nose dive with 13 feet of wood coming down on top of me.

But I put my faith in the board and she didn’t let me down in the slightest racing directly down the wave and straight out in front of it letting it explode behind me.
I made a conscious effort to try not to boss the board around too much and went with it and things just went smooth as ever, also I didn’t seem to have as much trouble manouvering the board today, I found that by sitting right on the very end you can spin it just that much easier that its a lot more effortless.
And another trick that I cottoned on to was sitting in the line up parallel with the incoming waves so you only had to turn 90 deg to paddle out over a set or go for a wave. Any how we had a blast and its looking like we could be going for a morning session tomorrow.

Well it was a 6 am wake up this morning in preparation of another surf, I didn’t even bother to check the report we were out there no matter what. Ali picked me up with his wife Jessica (who generously drove the camera for us, giving up a surf) and their dog Tess.

Thompson(not being much of morning person) had sternly advised us not to contact him in the morning, and that if he woke up and was keen he would meet us out there in the shit box.

We arrived, suited up and were just about to walk to the beach when the shit box came blazing through in all its glory with Thompson’s long board on the roof, we had a bit of a team meeting before we hit the beach and all agreed that I could be Mcgreedy again getting 13 feet of wood for the whole session today without too much opposition once we realised we had left the stack hat behind.
We walked down to the beach to conditions that had slackened off some what and were just not as good, but that didn’t deter us and even Tess was sharing the stoke thoroughly enjoying running around us with our boards as if to say “yeah you guys are gonna have so much fun”.
We hit the water and I got out the back with hardly any trouble with impeccable timing scooting out on a lull. Roy had dropped me a tip on how to turn the board easier which worked rather well so I was feeling good. Everything was going well, I caught a few waves and really started to feel the boards vibe.

I was having so much fun I started to forget my surroundings and just cruise on the board enjoying life, when I was snapped back to reality almost running Thompson down who had caught a wave before me and was heading back out, I narrowly avoided him seeing the whites in his eyes as I flew past and bailed.
After that I kept my mind on the job and the board started to show me bit by bit little subtleties that it could do, one of which most impressed me. Again I was on a wave heading for Thompson flying along the face, immediately taking evasive action crouching down into a rail grab. Before I had even realised it the board was swinging into a nice slow wide arched turn burying the tail into the wave and going a full 180 deg before accelerating along the blue again toward the breaking wave. This I did not expect at all and was very impressed with. I couldn’t help but think how much I liked this board, it just has its own special vibe and style.
Anyway I had a great surf, and the board got some attention on the walk back to the car with one guy even asking me “is that a Roy Stewart board” having a hold of it and admiring its craftsmanship.

Wax-on-wax-off the Ghost surfboard

“Had the board for three months in Northland and damn near ran away to Mexico with it. Roy, the board is Bitchin’ “

What is a parallel profile surfboard ?

2011-08-30T13:17:00.004+12:00

It's a postmodern surfboard type which does not taper in profile i.e it is the same thickness from nose to tail.

Postmodernism implies a timeline but it is really more about ideology, paradoxically its elements have always existed.

In my opinion modernism and late modernism still predominate. In surfing the term postmodern is most often used to mean 'most modern'. For example Matt Warshaw called surftech 'postmodern' in his book on the history of surfing when clearly it is an example of rampant modernism.

By its nature postmodern is more personal and diverse than modernism so defining it is always going to involve contradictions and subjectivity. From my perspective postmodernism in surfing started in 1994.

Modernism is characterised by industrial production, corporate control of ideas and a monocultural belief in technology. The terms 'High performance' and 'High tech' are definitely modern, as is the notion of a surfing hierarchy.

Roy Stuart created the parallel profile concept for flexibility and a low centre of gravity in a flash of inspiration in 1994, and simultaneously invented the parallel profile wooden surfboard construction method.

The reaction from the surfing world to the concept back then could be described as hysterical outrage ( as well as supercilious disdain :wink: ) , primarily due to the fact that it denies the tapering of profiles ( erroneously called 'foiling' ) which is one of the main shaping icons of the 20th century modernist approach to surfboard design. That attitude is still the majority view, and the parallel profile is still almost exclusively used by Roy Stuart surfboards.

Olo of the Sun to feature in the Museum of Arts and Design 'Against the Grain' exhibition

2011-08-19T14:10:00.001+12:00

Museum of Arts and Design 'Against the Grain' exhibition:

I've been invited to participate in this 2012 exhibition which will be running in Charlotte North Carolina for 4 months and then in New York City for a further 4 months. I'm sending the 19 foot 'Olo of the Sun'.

The invitation described the inclusion of a Roy Stewart surfboard as "greatly contributing to the message of the exhibition and an essential addition to the project"

Here's a description of the event from the assistant curator:

"Against the Grain: Wood in Contemporary Art, Craft and Design, curated by Lowery Stokes Sims. This project focuses on some of the most interesting conceptual and technical trends in wood working over the last decades. It will include approximately 80 objects by artists, craftsmen and sculptors presented together in a provocative ways that beg the questions of genre divisions in art.

The exhibition proceeds from the premise that Wood is the most modernist of materials and has functioned as a medium of virtuosity and functional elegance, while providing a direct experience of the material and its particular qualities. Over the last three decades, however, creators have used modernist expectations as platforms from which to launch creative approaches that strained the protocols of woodworking. Vessel forms have been deconstructed; furniture has played with the relationship between function and form; and sculpture has co-opted the techniques and forms of woodturning and furniture. Against the Grain focuses on work created since 2000 that demonstrate how these developments in woodworking exemplify postmodernism with the intention of providing fresh thinking about the medium of wood. "

Needless to say we are super stoked, take that all you naysayers!!

http://www.madmuseum.org/

Surfboard flex patterns.

2011-08-16T11:41:00.000+12:00

So, what is a flex pattern and how does flex occur in surfboards when they are being ridden ?

Firstly with regard to the term 'flex pattern'. It is used by hundreds of surfboard shapers throughout the industry without any reference to what it might mean, and with no examples of what a flex pattern might look like, presumably in the hope ( as is usually the case) that someone 'higher up' in the hierarchy knows what it means and in the certain knowledge that obfuscation creates an impression of deep knowledge where there is none.

So in other words it is BS !
.
What really goes on with surfboard flex? In order to get a surfboard to flex one needs downwards force and upward force opposing it. The standard way of describing this effect is to show a surfboard supported in two places with a rider applying downwards force in between the two supports.

.
Is this typical of what really occurs in the water ?

The answer is ( in most cases ) 'No'.

Annular tri fins for the Rogue 9'5"

2011-08-05T09:41:00.002+12:00

Paulownia core/epoxy resin/graphite fins for the Rogue 9'5":

Here are the three fins for the new Rogue 9'5" which I'm building currently. It's a round tail and will have a moderately deep single concave, with around 5.5" of rocker ( nose and tail ) with a wide point 30% aft. I'll post pictures of the 5 panels soon, five panels are being used as it will make life easier bending in the nose rocker.

The fin setup is a development of one I've done previously on a 10'9" pintail which was very fast ( 37+mph on a head high low period swell ). At the time I felt that it would be better on a roundtail, hence the Rogue.

Using a more highly rockered board with a tunnel fin is tricky to get right but can be very rewarding. The Rogue rocker is based on a more highly rockered tunnel fin equipped concave bottomed 10'4" pintail which was a favourite back in the year 2000.

When worlds collide: Ghost 13 by Roy Stewart meets the Campbell Brothers Bonzer Octafish

2011-07-25T10:06:00.000+12:00

After all these internet years Roy Stewart's legendary wood board is at Cafe Haleiwa. Duncan Campbell of Campbell Brothers Bonzer Surfboards is going to ride it soon.

Radical.

http://web.mac.com/cafehaleiwahawaii/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html

Earl 10'6"

2011-07-17T15:45:00.000+12:00

Earl 10'6" parallel profile paulownia surfboard with tuberculed spitfire cutaway fin by Roy Stuart. This board is based on the 12' Ghost.

Cutaway D fin

2011-07-15T12:49:00.004+12:00

Here's a 9 inch paulownia cutaway D fin which is using a fin base designed for wooden fins by Brad Tucker at woodsurfboardsupply.com.
http://www.woodsurfboardsupply.com/

The tab is convenient to install and comes in several different sizes

13' Ghost in Hawaii

2011-07-09T20:22:00.001+12:00

Here's the trusty 13' Ghost with two traditional Tom Blake era hollow wooden surfboards which are being restored for the bi-annual antique surfboard auction held in Hawaii

Future Primitive Ghost 13

'Chairman of the board' feature in Centurion magazine

2011-07-05T16:48:00.001+12:00

Roy Stewart rode his first wave at age four.
By nine he had built his first surfboard with
a cousin, using their grandfather’s tools and
knowledge gleaned from books on aerodynamics,
hydrodynamics and shipbuilding. Since then the
New Zealand surfer and carpenter has been on a
quest for the perfect wave-riding conveyance. And his
Paulownia wood designs, inspired by the surfboards
of the early Hawaiian kings, come very close indeed.
Form follows function to maximise efficiency, and
passion for the surf couples with profound technical
know-how to produce masterpieces of extraordinary
beauty. Stewart’s almost spiritual approach is
manifested in wares that are both breathtakingly
beautiful and remarkably agile – proving once again
that handsome design and high performance go hand
in hand.

From $396,000; olosurfer.com

Franziska Seng

http://www.centurion-magazine.com/home.html

Roy Stuart surfboards; 'Earl' Empress wood longboard.

2011-07-05T15:55:00.000+12:00

Earl:
Length: 10'6"
Width: 27"
Thickness: 2.75"
Weight: 27 pounds
Volume: 105 litres
Rocker: 3.5"

Rogue 9'5" round tailed longboard

2011-06-05T09:31:00.002+12:00

Rogue 9'5" by 24' by 2.25" with tunnel plus two fin setup and micro stepped hull.

Here's the paulownia frame and blocking stock.

The construction method is the 3 internal layer system which was used on the Future Primitive 'Ghost' 13 footer, it's used when we need to bend the panels to a tight nose rocker curve.

I'm making a new rocker jig for this board, it's a reproduction of one which we used back in 2000 for a very successful 10'4" but which was lost in our travels ( asi recall it was burnt in the woodstove to bake fish ).

The rocker is 7 inches nose and tail, with a deep single concave, as in the original 10'4" ( over 9'5" this will be reduced to around 5.5" )

The value of nothing: Daily Stoke interview

2011-05-28T20:43:00.000+12:00

" So you think you’re a shaper? Roy Stewart is the real deal, his best work to date took 4 years to make! We sat down with Roy to hear why he thinks many of you are a “circus full of performing monkeys”, why the Olosurfer is the Sport of Kings, and how he plans to “reinstate the Sport of Kings to its rightful spiritual eminence.”

As you’ll see, Roy represents the opposite of mass production, and it’s as if Roy jumped in a time capsule from the 1900s on his wood board, looked around, and said I like it the old way, thanks very much! "

http://www.dailystoke.com/2011/05/interview-with-zen-master-shaper-roy-stewart/

Original Sim paulownia slab

2011-05-24T21:23:00.001+12:00

A parallel profile 5'6" by 21" by 1.5" 'Original Sim' paulownia slab inspired by Bob Simmons.Volume 27 litres.

Surfing Philosophy: A message from Geoff McCoy

2011-05-14T14:03:00.001+12:00

Roy

I have a good look at your website, absolutely amazing your craftsmanship creativity is mind blowing, great stuff and your asking price must surely take surfboard building to a new level of awareness.

Interesting reading your email, my aim was and still is the big 3 surfing companies dominating surfing and telling surfers that Kelly S 's board was all they need now that is extreme ignorance a clothing company dictating surfboard design for all surfers that is why it has ended up in the situation it is in, no common sense just ego and greed, they got people so off the rails it will take quite a while before it balances out again, but it will !

As for charging too much, no way, if I were you I would ignore the people who do not understand and cannot afford to buy your product, they do not matter, you will survive longer than the young guy who is the latest promotion by the magazines who are dominated by the big 3, Q,RipC and Billabong, what you are doing is far more valuable then anorexic Al Merrick board for $850Aust with a life expectancy of 6 to 12 months, my advice is ignore the ignorant and produce value for money, take care.

Keep surfin

Geoff

http://www.mccoysurfboards.com/v1/

Philosophy of surfing: Primeval experience and the 'Easy school'

2011-05-06T23:37:00.000+12:00

Everything in my surfing philosophy follows from the idea of pure surfing. To purify surfing I discard that which isn't necessary to the experience. We hear of old school and new school but my philosophy is 'Easy School". It's simply about being there. There's a lot of clutter and social expectations out there in the water and I prefer to leave all that behind, making the experience more primeval.

Eliminating arbitrary land based criteria is vital. The commercial mass market surf industry thrives on and could not survive without arbitrary rules and surfing tricks, which are part of a land based corporate group mindset. It is merely an unwanted burden to the free thinker who wishes to transcend earthly matters and enter a more meditative zone by riding waves.

United Airlines' 'Hemisphere' magazine features the Chieftain surfboard.

2011-05-03T22:24:00.005+12:00

From the latest issue of United Airlines' 'Hemisphere' magazine:

Roy Stuart crafts a singular surfboard

"According to surfboard maker Roy Stuart's website, the unusually shaped Chieftain represents a triumph of imagination over practicality - which is pretty much true of surfing itself. One taste of its smooth, zippy ride and you'll never want to get out of the water again, and that's good, because if you bought a Chieftain you probably had to sell your house."

$417,000/olosurfer.com

Jacqueline Detwiler
http://www.hemispheresmagazine.com/2011/05/01/king-fin/

Human beings have a natural affinity for perfection in all forms. It is a desire which is at the core of our existence. We are at peace when we perceive manifestations of geometrical, mathematical and physical principles. Designing and making surfboards which express these principles is a pursuit which seeks the highest in all things, in order to become one with the primeval forces of the universe. When this is done the surfboard reflects those forces in its shape.

.

Attaching a fibreglass tab for a fin box on to a paulownia spitfire fin.

2011-04-29T14:00:00.001+12:00

5 mm Brass rods are inserted through the tab into the wooden fin

The finished 10inch spitfire cutaway fin

Baron 12 foot surfboard, featured in Surfer magazine

2011-04-20T08:54:00.002+12:00

A preview from a recent photo session featuring the Baron 12 footer for an upcoming Surfer magazine article.

Noseriding

2011-04-15T13:54:00.003+12:00

The noseriding goal ensures that the design is a dog from the start, using noseriding as a goal is a bankrupt idea from a functional point of view.

In terms of waveriding function, even in shorter lengths ( 9 foot range ) the anomalies of the noseriding shape are plain to see, it has no sweet spot and an unbalanced turning position which relies on slow tail pivoting.

This makes it unwieldy and highly inefficient. What is now being called the 'art' of noseriding is merely the celebration of the awkward antics required to make the hoplessly incoherent design work at a very low level of efficiency.

It's a celebration of failure, an 'emperor's new clothes' syndrome kept alive by advertising.

From this position the rider can neither accelerate when required, nor control the board properly.

A dysfunctional pose, the theory is that it is supposed to look relaxed and nonchalant but it never does because the rider is always feeling uncomfortable due to the awkard position . Relaxation comes from perfect control and balance. Noseriding is always unbalanced.

The ' Easy school' of surfing returns

2011-04-11T16:51:00.003+12:00

My inspiration for surfing has always been to harmonise with the forces of nature, rather than to impose myself and my personality on them. It is what we call 'Pure Surfing'

. It is also known in Hawaii as the 'make it easy' school. Pure surfing is not the aim of the mass market surf industry, which prefers at all times to make surfing difficult and to attack waves rather than flowing with them.

Pure surfing consists of removing that which is not needed in order to achieve efficiency and economy of motion, so that the experience becomes as easy as breathing.

Nothing must come between you and the experience. This requires a fresh design philosophy, whereby art consists of perfect function.

Shaper of the year 2011 Roy Stuart with the Chieftain hydrofoil longboard

2011-04-11T12:22:00.000+12:00

" Pictured with the Chieftain hydrofoil longboard is surfboard shaper of the year 2011 Roy Stuart from New Zealand."

A surfboard quiver of eight

2011-04-09T10:26:00.001+12:00

A surfboard quiver of eight, at Mount Maunganui's Shark Alley yesterday

Myths in big wave surfboard design

2011-04-08T21:04:00.000+12:00

Surfboards don't react to wave size, they react to the speed of the water flow.

To the average surfer, when waves reach a life threatening size this affects them emotionally so much that they put it in a different realm. In reality that's just another example of spurious information, of 'clutter' which has no design use whatsoever.

To most surfers the design factors which determine whether or not a surfboard is good for big waves are social and or emotional... in other words almost completely irrelevant in design terms.

Surfboards react according to the laws of physics... how the board came into being has no bearing on how it works, it works entirely as determined by physics.

Waves don't care about the social standing or reputation of the person who built the surfboard, nor does the surfboard. The rider sometimes does, and that can be the proverbial spanner in the works. . . the operator error.

The bottom line is, boards react to water flow, not the ladies gossip circle.

There are one or two other differences on bigger waves, mainly the need to move faster to get into the faster moving swell, but that's about it, and the awe and mystery surrounding big wave boards in the minds of Joe average is based only on fear. Fear isn't a hydrodynamic factor.

Olo of the sun unveiled

2011-04-02T22:15:00.009+13:00

Because Roy Stuart surfboards are sculpted mathematically, they attain a pinnacle of visual and tactile art, just as mathematical precision in Renaissance and Neo Classical music did in the realm of sound.

I believe that ( at least in the context of surfboards) art IS function, and that art consists of making mathematically perfect functional objects which harmonise with the laws of physics and the forces of nature, rather than as some arbitrary expression of personal feeling.

From a visual point of view it is artistically most pleasing ( in my opinion ) to look at objects which are geometrically and mathematically coherent due to their uncompromising practicality.

All this was clear to me subconsciously when I was a teenager. I would buy new surfboards and keep them in my study when not in use, with the intention of admiring their beautiful lines. I found however, that instead of enjoying them I would mentally correct them.

Roy Stuart surfboards need no such correction, so they are more pleasing to the eye as well as being more efficient on the waves. The human psyche admires their perfection instinctively and intuitively, because it has an affinity for order and perfection.

Geometrically pefect curves coherently related in order harmonise with the laws of physics ( as opposed to man made curves aimed at man made goals ) appeals to the human psyche on an instinctive level rather than a learned or social level

The curves I use are not mine, they were invented by the Great Architect.
Some discussion of the leading edge tubercules seen on the fin:

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2011/02/spitfire-tubercule-cutaway-fin-for-106.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/05/more-biomimetics-and-fin-tubercule.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/07/wind-turbines-inspired-by-whales.html

A close look at the 'spherical' rocker on the Future Primitive Ghost 12 foot pintail.

2011-03-27T18:17:00.002+13:00

This 'spherical' or 'circular arc' rocker has been one of the most successful rockers which we have used. Technically it's a slightly tweaked spherical rocker because the nose curve is slightly elliptical, the true spherical rocker is used on the Dragon board 13'9" and the Waikiki 17 footer, as well as on smaller boards like the Phantom ( 8'4" to 10 feet ) and the '7 of diamonds' 7' double ended roundtail.

All in all it's a great rocker. From this angle and at 12 feet it looks like a lot of curve, but looks in this case are deceptive: in fact it's the same curve which used at 10'6" on the Earl looks to be conservative or on the low side.

By the way a certain 'dark horse' by the name of Stretch is now using a spherical rocker exclusively for his big wave guns... bottom line is he's doing it because it works very well indeed, for reasons which will be explained, again.

Future Primitive Ghost 12'

Future Primitive Earl 10'6"

Linseed oiling alaias, and a peek at the Earl

2011-03-24T16:20:00.005+13:00

Alaias at 6'5" and 6'7" plus a paipo for 'House of Aroha' in Napier.

The Earl 10'6" has been curing for a couple of weeks prior to final sanding and polishing, here the spherical or circular arc rocker can be seen to advantage.

A quiver of future Primitives: The 12 foot Ghost and the 10'6" Earl.

Power Fish, an old school parallel profile fish.

2011-03-11T18:14:00.000+13:00

The Power Fish design has proven to be a favourite for amateur surfboard builders.

Earl 10'6": fin setting, fin chord position, leading edge tubercules, displacement tail.

2011-03-10T18:59:00.002+13:00

Installation of the 12" Spitfire cuataway tubercule fin for the 10'6" Earl. A 2" deep slot (which fits the fin exactly) is made in the surfboard. It's a very sturdy method of attaching the fin as the fin becomes an integral part of the board. It also allows the fillet at the fin base to be the optimal size for water flow, as a structural fillet isn't required.

Checking that the elliptical planform planar foil is set 'plumb'.

Here the smooth relatively even curve produced by the 50/50 position of the chord or thickest part of the fin can be seen. A 50/50 foil gives a more accurate response to turning and trimming input from the rider than the commonly used foil sections which have their chord positions further forward. Moving the chord position aft also reduces drag, and even though the angle of attack capability of the fin is somewhat reduced, this is overcome via a slightly thicker foil and leading edge tubercules. This fin has proven itself to be a truly outstanding performer without leading edge tubercules, and promises to be even better with them added.

Prior to adding the 4mm diameter filet at the fin base, the excess epoxy and paulownia dust marine glue is carefully scraped away. Later a bead of clear resin will be used to make the fillet, the surface tension of the resin making a perfect half round fillet without any hand shaping.

The Earl's torpedo like parallel profile displacement tail, a concept thankfully not yet understood by the surfing world at large who continue to think that the term 'displacement' applies only to a class of outdated thin railed slightly convex bottomed boards known erroneously as 'displacement hulls'. The great functional beauty and subtleties of the displacement tail are known only to a few, it's a taste acquired only by experience.

The oblique plank lines suggest water flow...

13 footer Hikoi ride report from Mr X in Hawaii

2011-03-02T09:08:00.000+13:00

Mr X reports in after his first ride on the 13 footer:

Roy, The board was very interesting to say the least. It felt alive in the water with all of the twang that wood produces. Caught waves effortlessly ...and took the drops with ease. I surfed the waves as long as possibly could. Would be nice at a Mexican point break.

I found myself venturing off the central riding area a couple of times which I could feel some drag but when I went back to the sweet spot all was sweet. It's fast as in making sections but it doesn't feel fast as in out of control.

The board is like no other. Kind of feels like bodysurfing in a way.

Earl 10'6" HWS pintail singlefin, resin coating

2011-03-01T22:02:00.002+13:00

Resin coating the Earl 10'6" HWS pintail singlefin.

The bottom of the surfboard appears to have planking which is fan like, this is not an illusion, in fact the planking is narrower on the far side of the board and wider on the side closest to the camera. This pleasing visual effect is due to the paulownia logs being cut carefully to minimise waste. By tapering the planking to suit the log 20% more usable wood was obtained.

The bottom has a single concave through the middle of the board starting about 15 inches back from the nose and diminishing a similar distance from the tail, a deep concave isn't needed as the span efficiency of the 27 inch wide hull is already high, so we've applied 1/8" at the deepest point. The concave was laminated into the board using our usual method.

.

Surfboard balance: an introduction.

2011-03-01T21:51:00.001+13:00

A central riding position gives perfect balance, as Tom Blake shows here.

A true sweet spot is only possible with correct balance.

Balanced surfing is smoother, less obtrusive, more efficient, and feels better. It requires a surfboard which is designed to ridden from a natural, centrally located fulcrum.

Spitfire tubercule cutaway fin for the 10'6" Earl pintailed wooden surfboard

2011-02-28T20:23:00.002+13:00

Baroque style, biomimetics, and golden paulownia wood converge in the 12 inch spitfire fin for the Earl 10'6".

Tubercule explanation:
http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/05/new-zorb-fin-for-future-primitive-106.html

Frank Fish, whale bump pioneer.
wind-turbines-inspired-by-whales

The Earl 10'6":
earl-106-hws-pintail-singlefin

Garret McNamara at pipeline with Roy Stuart's 13' Ghost

2011-02-27T19:59:00.001+13:00

The mighty Ghost 13 at Pipeline with Garrett McNamara, showing the beautifully efficient lines characteristic of the extreme pintailed 'Future Primitive' designs with their spherical/elliptical rocker, continuous 50/50 rail section and thin parallel profile.

Photograph by Ian & Erick Regnard @ Tungsten:

tungsten at photoshelter

Earl 10'6" HWS pintail singlefin, shaping continues...

2011-02-19T19:56:00.001+13:00

Here's the 10'6" Earl elite singlefin pintail partly shaped. The board is based on the 'Future Primitive' rocker and planshape which is shared by the 'Ghost' 11 and 12 footers and the 'Future Primitive' 13 footer.

With a central riding position and extreme circular arc pintail, a 10'6" board like this feels like a shortboard in the water

Spherical-elliptical rocker, parallel profile, 30/70 continuous downrail, single concave bottom, spooned deck, finished weight approximately 30 pounds.

Seeka's new 10' pintail

2011-02-17T15:23:00.004+13:00

Here is Seeka's beautiful new ten foot pintail, built from Roy Stuart's kitset and plans, with some tweaks to personalise the ride. Actually the plans gave two options: one the 9'3' Duke and the other a 10'9" Makaha pintail. Seeka used the Makaha planshape and bottom curve, and by taking a 3" slice out of the middle of the planshape brought the width of the board down to 24" and the length to 10" in the process creating a subtle '#3' point on the nose.

Seeka's report:

" Yesterday was the day. Finally i got to test the board at oreti beach.. i turned up around 9 am and not a soul to be seen. Seeing as i only have a 8ft leash, the decision was made to not use a leggie, but i was a bit apprehensive seeing as i would be out there on my own (it's a long paddle out into the southern ocean) on an unfamiliar board.

Then surf school turned up. I know the head guy and he immediately spotted the stick in my car and wanted to check it out, so i hauled her out and gasps abound from the kook crew. They were buzzing on the board and questions were being asked quicker than i could answer.

The boss guy was impressed. he's also a pu longboard shaper and a well respected artist. he asked if he could have a go and i said 'of course, once i've had a few..it's the maiden voyage and the captain gets first cruise'.

It has exceeded my expectations and i am fully stoked.

I borrowed a 10 ft leash off the school(which turned out to be a blessing) and headed out. first thing i noticed was it's buoyancy. then i hopped on and started to paddle. it paddled so easy! i was skimming along with little effort and punching through the white water was a breeze.

First wave came along and i lined myself up for it...a few quick effortless paddles and she took off down the face. shortboard habits let me down, i leaned into the bottom turn and the board kept going straight ahead.
the next wave i nose dived. paddled back out and was met by two very inquisitive hector dolphins who spent the next hour hanging around me taking slow dives under the board and fully checking it out.

next wave, ..a really clean right hander(natural for me) at about shoulder height...i lined myself up and paddled up to speed, the wave picked me up and as smooth as silk the board took off, i jumped to my feet, gently leaned into a bottom turn, easy as..and headed down the line. it was a fast and smooth exit from the bottom turn. i had found the sweet spot and was away roller coasting down the line, turning was effortless, bottom turns were effortless as was cut backs, generally the whole ride was just magic...i threw everything i knew about surfing out the window and just glided the next half a dozen waves at speed...laughing the whole time.

One wave, a left, sectioned out in front of me, i held my balance and aimed for the clean wall and before i knew it i was on the open face again. this has never happened before on my 7'2", once a section closes it's impossible to gain enough speed to catch up with the wave at oreti..but not on the hollow 10 footer!

I caught another 6 or so waves, cruising at speed and beating close out sections on the lefts, which on any other board i have ridden is near impossible at this place..actually, i have never beaten a section there and have never seen anyone else beat sections. i had one of the most fun filled surfs ever... fully stoked.

I headed in , it was time for the boss guy to have a go and i was keen to get some feed back from a very competent longboard rider. this guy had no problem finding the sweet spot. he was all over the waves, cutbacks, trimming in style, switchfoot and beating sections once thought impossible.

He caught about 6 waves and came in beaming and buzzing, "beautiful!.....this is a board that you don't need to ride..it takes you for a ride!
."throw all your ideas about surfing out the window...no need to walk this board...just stand in one spot and slightly lean toe to heal on the back foot and the board does the rest"
Later on he came around to my home for a couple of hrs and marveled at it's beauty. he shapes pu longboards, lives at riverton and is also a respected artist in southland...quite the character. We yarned , and being the open minded man he is, he understood and appreciated it's design.

In the last 30 yrs i have ridden all sorts of boards from 5'4" channeled 80's thrusters to the occasional mal ride....this board by far is the most fun so far and easy...a different way to surf and an absolute pleasure.

Roy, i can't express how happy i am with this board.

Thank you so much for your insight and inspiration.

Peace to you.

Seeka
"

Balsa 9'1" restored.

2011-02-14T21:49:00.004+13:00

1999 Roy Stuart balsawood 'Thrusterbuster' pintail restored over the past year by Jared.

Some of you might remember surfco member 'expat UK' who bought my old favourite 9'1" 'Thrusterbuster' pintail with the intention of refinishing it.

Well he didn't do it but Jared did over the past year, and here's the result. The board is simple but goes like a bat out of hell and was the terror of the Mount for quite some time back in the banana republic days. In spite of the low rocker the board never pearled, thanks to the extreme pintail planshape.

Dimensions:

Length: 9'1"
Width 23"
Thickness 2.25"
Rocker 1" approximately
Construction: Ecuador balsa.

This was the first of two identical boards, the other was swapped for a 1971 Dodge AT4 Ambulance in mint condition, which was an epic surf vehicle.

Construction took place at the old Power surfboards camp at Aerodrome rd Omanu, where we shared 40 acres of gorse covered industrial land only half a mile from the beach( belonging to page and Macrae Engineering and the Bay of Plenty Times ) with the local hoons for about 5 years. Rather than do the job under canvas again I took delivery of an old weatherboard site shed which Acme Engineering were going to demolish, it arrived on a huge forklift and was the only building on the entire property, where it sat proudly for a few years. The site shed was only big enough to house the new 9'1" project if the board was placed diagonally across the room, and to get from one side of the board to the other I had to go underneath and up the other side... there being only a couple of inches spare at each end.

The board started life as a single and was epic, it was also the first board I ever rode a tunnel fin on when we added a 4 inch diameter tunnel behind the single.

The first surf on the tunnel finned version was at Shark Alley and I was rewarded with epic standup backdoor barrels (righthanders) in perfect sunny offshore conditions for about 25 minutes as the swell angle produced a big wedge. My wife just reminded me that I got out of the water and said " We've cracked it !"

Marty Matenga saw the session from the rocks only a few feet away from where I was getting spat out into the channel, he was babysitting at the time, beached as !

There were only three of us out, the other two ( Dusty Wadell and a mate ) caught nothing and grumbled about it hahahha.

Good memories. .

Thankyou to Jared for the pictures and for doing such a nice job !

Cutting edge surfboards of the future: Chieftain.

2011-02-13T18:06:00.003+13:00

If you’ve spent much time riding ocean waves , you’ve seen one fateful failure: most surfing boards lack any semblance of uniqueness. While the sea may be filled with countless cookie-cutter surfboards, there are some designs which stand out strongly.

The old woodies of yesteryear have given way to a fresh new design sensibility in the emerging world of luxury surfboards. The Roy Stuart Chieftain is only typical in its size, its design and function are as organic and progressive as they come. From nose to tail the Chieftain surfboard carries its pilot in the ultimate sea-friendly style.

http://www.olosurfer.com

Juliana's paipo

2011-02-11T00:01:00.000+13:00

Paulownia bodyboard 50" long, 21" wide and 1" thick with a hardwood leashplug.

Oiled with boiled linseed oil.

Earl 10'6" Roy Stuart surfboard will be worth its weight in gold bullion !

2011-02-03T17:51:00.003+13:00

The Earl 10'6" elite is a shorter and wider version of the highly successful Ghost 12 and Future Primitive 13, both are what are called ( 'In house' ) as Diamond series extreme pintails. The addition of the Earl adds wealth to the range in the FP series, enabling a seamless transition from 13 feet down to 10'6" for the owner of this most expensive and desirable surfboard collection.

With an identical rocker to the FP 13 and Ghost the wider shorter Earl will be even more agile and manoeuvrable, and will have greater acceleration on takeoff.

Specifications:
Length 10'6"
Width 27"
Thickness 2.5"
Volume 75 litres approx.
Weight 20 pounds approx.
Price: US$417k or 10kg of gold bullion

here's the first frame and rail panel, note the 'parabolic' or perimeter rail, which Roy Stuart surfboards invented in 1994. The parallel profile perimeter rail is superior in flex and strength qualities to the common parabolic rail now used in the surfboard mass market. A crucial aspect of the parallel profile parabolic rail is the use of multi directional 4, 5, or 6 layer laminations in which the grain direction in each layer of the rail corresponds with and is tied in to the frames and/or deck and bottom planking . This means that there are no anomalies in the structure and consequently the surfboard flexes as a harmonious whole.

Frame spacing here is 6 inches, which is the widest spacing used in the parallel profile sysytem. All frame junctions will be tied together with vertical struts in order to resist internal pressure should it arise

The fin is an 11 inch spitfire cutaway built from a multi directional hand laid paulownia panel and will have whale tubercules on the leading edge.

James' new 7'8" 'Jet' wooden surfboard.

2011-02-01T18:03:00.002+13:00

Jet 7'8" by 19" parallel profile paulownia Roy Stuart wooden surfboard with tunnel fin plus tuberculed in line single fin.

Luxury Toys for Men by Rebekka Wangler

2011-01-28T22:46:00.002+13:00

“It’s a man’s world,” sang James Brown in 1966. Honoring this maxim, this book was made for men who relish the finer things in life. It spans everything from neat technological gimmicks and exclusive watches to extraordinarily fast cars, focusing on exactly the type of luxury that makes the “stronger sex’s” heart beat faster.

See Roy Stewart surfboards 12 foot olo surfboard collection in 'Luxury Toys for Men' published in English, German, French, Spanish, and Italian.

http://www.teneues.com/shop-int/books/lifestyle-boulevard/luxury-toys-for-men.html

The parlous state of mainstream big wave gun surfboard design and why the FP 13 Hawaii challenge board is light years ahead: spherical rocker, displacement tails and other magic remedies.

2011-01-24T23:06:00.008+13:00

Even as late as 2004/5 the level of understanding of big wave guns was so low that much of the carnage at Mavericks was blamed on a mythical 'suction zone'. I wrote some long essays on Swaylocks on the subject and how it was really to do with too much toe in and cant which was stopping the boards from turning. The typical side fin cant and toe in which was used in smaller waves was cut and pasted on to big wave guns and couldn't handle the speeds involved at Mavericks. Of course the industry legends all denied this and I was abused for saying it but the message got through after a while and now it is common knowledge that zero or low toe in and cant is required for faster speeds and bigger waves.

At present most big wave paddle in guns are still based on the tail riding shortboard concept. This is a fundamental mistake in my opinion, as the tail riding position is inherently unstable and gives poor control. With a more central riding position far better control can be achieved. In addition the wider tails used in such boards have the problem that because the planing lift produced by the tail ( and fins) increases by the square as speed increases, it becomes increasingly difficult to turn the boards at higher speeds, as the rail to rail leverage exerted by the tail increases drastically. That's why we see riders having to slow down at the bottom of the wave to turn rather than turning as they go down the face, and it's also why we see so many riders failing on the takeoff, parachuting down the face into oblivion due to inability to control the planing area which is all concentrated at the tail where they are standing,. .. . the nose is uncontrollable from the tail particularly if wind gets under it. Nose weights do not solve the problem. Tails ( currently I'm the only one doing this ) which are extremely narrow ( thus having low planing area and very little rail to rail leverage ) but which have substantial buoyancy avoid this problem completely regardless of speed, as buoyant lift does not increase as speed increases.

Rocker wise the central riding position can be achieved with variety of rockers including those with very flat tail sections, but the board we sent to Hawaii follows one of our most successful rocker and planshape combinations which we've been using since 1995 ( the circular arc or 'spherical' rocker whereby the nose and tail rocker measurement is identical and the widepoint in planshape as 50% back from the nose ) This rocker and planshape combination is ideal for the central riding position. I've been consistently mocked and attacked for using this setup ever since the beginning,( and I've been publicly singing its praises for the past 15 years ) but the fact of the matter is that it's a very good system. I noticed only last week that the maker of 'Stretch' surfboards has announced a new innovation ( supposedly new anyway) namely the spherical rocker and 50/50 planshape proportion inorder to achieve a more forward, central riding position on his guns. So the message appears to be getting through again !

I've been singing its praises for over two decades and it's good medicine provided that it's matched to the planshape correctly ( widepoint around halfway up ).The continuous ( also known as circular arc or spherical rocker ) rocker was bagged by shapers for many years because it isn't complicated enough, it's like the crew cut of surfboard rocker no curling pins or hairspray required !

I use two kinds of spherical rocker, a true spherical rocker and a tweaked one. In both cases the nose and tail rocker measurements are identical, and the widepoint is at halfway. The true spherical rocker is just that, a circular arc. the tweaked version is spherical from the wide point back but has a slightly elliptical rocker forward of the wide point.... this doesn't affect the overall nose rocker measurement.

There's a lot more to this particular design ( the Roy Stuart surfboards FP13 which is in Hawaii ) for example the displacement or sinker tail which allows the tail to be sunk for control during steep drops or turns, and the use of large elliptical planform 'spitfire' fin area with a narrow tail and circular arc tail in planshape for presentation of the fin at angles which provide significant planing lift when angling and dropping on steep walls.

The use of a longer wider board with a parallel profile enables good paddling power while keeping the board thickness down as much as possible ( the FP13 is only 2.25" thick ) for greatly improved control and superb flex .

Weight distribution wise the distribution is approximately proportional to the planshape area, thus there is significant weight in the nose. This, combined with a long nose, provides penetration and control by allowing the nose weight to guide the board's glide path via the releasing and engaging of the rail. This rail release is best achieved via extremely soft rails, I use a continuous 50/50 rail section for smoothness and predictability. A 50/50 rail behaves the same way when entering or leaving the water. Predictability and control lead to confidence and ease of correct wave positioning, which in turn leads to speed and wave making ability.

The central riding position of the Future Primitive 13 footer and the 12 foot Ghost is all about balance and control

Roy Stuart

The 13 ft Olo Hikoi continues

2011-01-23T15:50:00.003+13:00

This 13 foot board has been travelling since 2007, passed from surfer to surfer. All went well and everyone was stoked until some surf industry guys ( three of them to be exact Randy rarick, Bill Ward and Garrett McNamara ) got hold of the board. They kept it locked away for two years during which time it was ridden only 4 times, I was also unable to get it back, and had to put up with a lot of lies and unsolicted promises which weren't kept. The politics of it all was not what it was supposed to be about. In all three cases I hadn't asked these influential people to get involved, they just took control, and then mothballed the project while posting bad reviews based on their own incompetence and skullduggery.

Well I finally managed to get Garrett to hand the board over, it wasn't easy he kept stalling saying he really wanted to ride it on the next big swell in order to 'blow some minds' . . . then he would ride his SUP instead, this went on for a long time but now the redoubtable Mr XYZ has extracted the beast from Garrett's garage where it was stored with the vent closed. Thanks Garrett for doing the decent thing.

She's now in Waikiki for a while !

A free spitfire cutaway surfboard fin template

2011-01-21T19:27:00.003+13:00

Here's a free spitfire fin template suitable for mid sized longboards from 9 to 11 feet long, it can be scaled up and down for shorter and longer boards.

Planing lift and displacement lift in surfboards

2011-01-21T12:55:00.001+13:00

what makes a full nose fish catch waves better than a 5-10 glass slipper ?

A combination of greater displacement lift ( due to greater volume) and greater planing lift ( due to more area)

The two kinds of lift are planing and displacement lift, these occur in varying proportions but both are always present whenever the board is moving.

The board does not have to be 'planing' ie.e leaving the stern wave behind in order to produce planing lift, planing lift will be produced even at paddle in speeds.

Also the amount of planing lift produced by the board will not only depend upon speed but also on the angle of attack, thus more nose rocker for example will produce more lift at a given speed. It will also produce more drag in order to produce that lift, but in reality the greater lift can mean that the board takes off earlier, thus lifting the nose area out of the water, thereby reducing drag.

So a board with greater area and/or rocker in the nose will have greater accleration on takeoffin many cases. Often we hear about low rocker making the board faster on the takeoff but that's only true in some situations.

Olo of the Sun, wet sanding and polishing continued

2011-01-17T08:53:00.000+13:00

Day two hand sanding the 19 footer: 120 grit, 150 grit,180 grit, 240 grit and 280 grit, only three more to go.

All sanding is done fore and aft in the direction of the water flow.

Olo of the Sun, wet sanding and polishing

2011-01-15T17:11:00.000+13:00

Having cured for about a week the olo of the sun is ready for wet sanding and polishing, the ideal place for this is in the shade of paulownia trees in the plantation which are destined for future surfboards. It's a big job, so far over 5 hours have been spent just to get through 80 grit and 100 grit

Master class: Tips for rolling a longboard under waves when paddling out

2011-01-12T21:57:00.005+13:00

Roy, when you are surfing one of your long boards in triple overhead conditions, could you please provide details of your duck diving technique when caught inside ?

The correct technique is to roll under, it works as well as duck diving although it sometimes takes a bit more energy.

For successful rolling under longboards need to be reasonably heavy, have rail cross sections which are able to be gripped strongly ( i.e. lowish volume, not like an SUP ) and not too much thickness.

Rolling under must be done from the middle area of the board or behind the middle,not the nose, doing it from the nose is a dangerous method and can lead to cartwheeling.

In bigger waves when rolling while going up the unroken face it's best to grab the board behind the centre and thrust it forwards as one rolls so that it punches through the lip, the nose drops down the back of the wave and pulls one through the wave.

I have the most trouble rolling on broken waves. Any specific technique to that Roy?

Don't grab on to the board with the legs as the horizontal bodily position will allow the board and rider to be pushed backwards, this can be followed by the tail digging in and the board flipping up vertically, and possibly cartwheeling.

Try to keep the body vertical under the board so that it will act as a sea anchor. Extending the arms high above the head increases the sea anchor effect but reduces grip strength. Extending the arms won't work if the board is too light as the board just gets lifted into the air

If the wave breaks very hard then the board can be pulled down on to the head, this increases the grip on the board a lot, I do this wth a helmet though, so I'm not sure how it works on the unprotected head.

Timing helps, rolling too soon is the main thing to avoid, it's best to roll with some paddling momentum, rather than waiting motionless for the wave. Rolling too early also wastes time which should be spent paddling.

If the problem is that the wave is getting under the nose and ripping the board out of your hands then you are either holding on too close to the nose, or the board is too light. Some nose rocker helps as it keeps the nose down when the board is inverted.

Distal taper on the tuberculed spitfire fin for the olo of the sun

2011-01-09T16:28:00.000+13:00

The tuberculed spitfire fin for the olo of the sun showing non linear distal taper.

The evolution of the Laird tunnel finned surfboard

2011-01-06T20:44:00.002+13:00

Here are the original 11'8" 'Laird' prototypes. We built two identical prototypes at the same time ( 2004) , one equipped as a singlefin and the other with a 6 inch diameter tunnel fin

The singlefinned version, which rode well.

The tunnel finned version, which rode amazingly well:

The first fin setup, with a very thin 12 inch base bulb tipped keel fin , and only 6 inches deep. The entire fin system was 16 inches long foreand aft. This combination resulted in one of the fastest boards I've ever ridden, a ridiculously fast section making rocket. Turns were easy and precise, but restricted to very long arcs. Shorter radius turns could be accomplished with a lot of effort, but were only required if paddlers got in the way.

Here's the second fin used for the MkII prototype, which was a great all round fin, many waves were ridden with this one in conjunction with the 6 inch tunnel and I was very happy with it.

MkIII sporting a new bulb tipped flex fin with carbon fibre upstand, which is still on the board today.

Olo of the Sun, surfing gold !

2011-01-03T22:25:00.000+13:00

The fourth resin coat on the deck of the olo of the sun.

The swooping rocker, revealing the low central riding position which is unique to Roy Stewart surfboards and which contributes greatly to their superior peformance.

The mighty longbow like tail has a powerful twang

A constant 50/50 2.25" slightly elliptical rail profile ensures that the rider's feet are never more than 1.125" above the rail apex or 2.25 above the water, ensuring surperb control.

From a paddler's perspective this view means that the olo is passing safely by !

Olo of the Sun million dollar surfboard: the first resin coat

2010-12-31T16:55:00.000+13:00

Olo of the Sun is pervasive in its power, blazing with its message of vitality, life force and the unlimited energy that is within us waiting to be used and expressed. Olo of the Sun gives strength and positive radiant energy which brings happiness and joy.

J class legacy

Inspired by J Class yachts and the wooden olo surfboards of the ancient Hawaiian Kings, Olo of the Sun captures the essence of adventure of the 1930s. Its unique long low profile combined with flowing lines and elegant proportions, gives a sense of spirit and momentum even at rest.

The first resin coat on the Olo of the Sun million dollar surfboard:

Roy Stuart Makaha 12'9" voted 2010 surfboard of the year !

2010-12-29T09:26:00.001+13:00

The toxic Surf Industry Manufacturers Association Cartel nominated an inflatable SUP as '2010 surfboard of the year', but we are pleased to announce that the prestigious Olosurfer Surfboard of the Year award has been won by Roy Stuart's Makaha 12-9, which is not only one of the most hydrodynamically advanced surfboards in the world but also one of the most expensive at US $528k.

http://www.olosurfer.com/makaha.html

"An intricate linkage of over 400 small component parts, Makaha's graceful structure has a delicacy which belies its mass and power, revealing the velocity and weightlessness of its flight.

State of the art

Nothing should distract from the pleasure of riding Makaha. Nothing does. It is a simple pleasure, offering a seemingly endless surge of power."

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard: rail shaping.

2010-12-28T15:16:00.001+13:00

The bottom of the olo has been faired, it has a concave through the nose and mid section which diminishes and runs into a flat area four feet from the tail. Hand sanding the bottom has taken approximately 14 hours.

Now the rail faceting continues: a continuous 50/50 slightly elliptical section.

Surfboard fin guide part 3: The dreaded flat spot, fin flex.

2010-12-27T17:02:00.004+13:00

This example of the typical flat spot showed up today on magicseaweed.. . a great example of how not to foil a fin:

The flat spot shown above extends over three quarters of the fin base and half the height of the fin, it will cause flow separation, a decreased ability to handle high angles of attack, stalling, and unnecessary drag.

With care and a sanding block the fin could be fixed in an hour or two. . something most people, even the supposedly 'best' fin makers usually can't be bothered to do.

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2009/01/surfboard-fin-guide-part-one-flat-spot.html

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2009/01/surfboard-fin-guide-part-two-flat-spot.html

Flexy or stiff ?

The main factor which will increase stiffness is the thickness to height ratio of the fin ( regardless of the type of glass orcore used). If one prefers the fin to be stiffer just make it thicker, and keep greater thickness into the tip, tapering it less. Extending the fore and aft length of the fin will prevent the chord ratio from becoming too low. Bringing the position of maximum chord thickness back to about 40 to 45% aft will help lower drag on a thicker fin also.

Fin flex on an upright pivot fin as shown below is not beneficial, it only works to advantage on a low, highly raked fin where the flex gives a motion like a fish tail. Even the standard Greenough/Liddle dolphin fin shape is insufficiently raked for beneficial flex. We prefer to use a fore and aft rake to height ratio of less than 1:1, the pivot fin is closer to 1:3.

Northern Light organic beeswax surfboard wax

2010-12-27T09:23:00.001+13:00

Northern Light organic beeswax surfboard wax is the original organic wax, which we first made in 1996. The recipe was published on Swaylock's surfboard design forum in 2004 and a host of small wax companies sprang up using it. Several of those companies won awards for 'their' supposedly original idea....

http://www.olosurfer.com/wax.html

'Building the Dragon Board' article by Roy Stuart from Australian Amateur Boatbuilder magazine.

2010-12-23T19:34:00.003+13:00

by: Roy Stuart as featured in the Australian Amateur Boatbuilder 2004

Riding a huge timber surfboard is a great way to surf. The pilot of an Olo longboard is able to open up virgin territory and ride previously unsurfable breaks. Even normally crowded surf spots can provide epic solo sessions in conditions which are outside the range of normal surfing equipment.

A really big board like the olo is able to connect scattered breaking wave sections together so efficiently that surf which appears to irregular or blown out, often proves to be easily cruisable.

Gliding on big unbroken swells is another relaxing pastime, and if the craft well designed it can also slot into hollow waves when they occur:

Shown here is the 13'9" Dragonboard, part of a quiver which includes a 12' and a 17' model. All three of these boards have proven themselves over the years to be capable of riding just about any wave that comes along.

The extreme pintail design is usually associated with paddle boards, but is really he best possible tail shape for an Olo. By providing the most planshape curve over the longest distance , the circular arc rail line of the extreme pintail allows better manoeverability than a board with a more parallel outline. These boards are ridden from the middle of the board without walking up and down.

Early hollow plywood boards built in Australia show similar planshapes to the Dragonboard.
The Dragon differs in that it has more rocker curve, a much more substantial fin, a lower centre of gravity, a round rail, and fore and aft flexibility.

By departing from the usual system of fore and aft taper (viewing the board from the side), in favour of a parallel profile, the board gains a swooping deck curve which exactly matches the bottom curve, giving a lower riding position and far better control than the ponderously thick, flat decked types.

Construction wise the machine is a simple four layered 'sandwich' built over a mould.

The plans shown here have been developed from the original Roy Stuart balsa pp system to allow the boards to be built from heavier timbers. Using a double diagonal internal layer torsion box construction we get a strong flexible hollow structure. Plywood can be substituted for the fore and aft planking on the deck and bottom if a more tradtional look is desired.

Unlike foam or balsawood surfboards, with a board built from a harder timber ( Redwood, Cedar, lightweight pine and Paulownia are favourites) glassing with cloth is optional.

Turning a continuous round rail is the only shaping that is required.

There are possible variations on these construction layouts and the board dimensions can be quite easily altered over a surprisingly wide range. The thickness of the board can be tuned for more buoyancy and less sensitivity.

The bottom curve can be increased by up to two inches for hollower waves and more manoeverability, or reduced by the same amount for maximum paddle speed, wave catching and glide.

By building the board as drawn, however, satisfaction is guaranteed.

To a builder with a boat or two to his credit, the board building procedure should be self explanatory. For first timers there are step by step instructions at this link.

Low aspect ratio spitfire cutaway box fin, completed.

2010-12-22T16:54:00.003+13:00

Custom Roy Stewart hand made wooden longboard fin with fibreglass base for a standard singlefin box.

The fin shown is a 10.5" low aspect ratio spitfire cutaway fin, other templates include D fins, Hatchet fins, pivot fins or any custom shape of your own.

The elliptical spitfire' fin has the lowest induced drag of any planar fin shape. This means more drive, more power, better control, and greater speed.

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/12/low-aspect-ratio-spitfire-cutaway-box.html

Elliptical wing explanation on wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptical_wing

Milling paulownia wood for surfboards

2010-12-17T16:19:00.001+13:00

On the 12th of August this year we harvested some 20 year old paulownia trees which were growing only a few hundred metres from the workshop.

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/08/harvesting-paulownia-for-surfboards.html

Yesterday the logs were slabbed by Ian and Roy, an operation which went very smoothly in the welcome drought breaking light rain which fell all day.

Here the big Stihl 064 chainsaw makes light work of the small diameter logs.

A slow growth rate in the diameter of these logs was the result of them being planted very close together. The wood has close growth rings and more contrast in grain colour than most of the paulownia wood we have seen.

Two cubic metres of wood were cut into 3 and 4 inch slabs over a 6 hour period

Ian also brought us a load of dry surfboard wood from his site in the Kaimai ranges where he's been harvesting 20 acres of paulownia and blackwood, there's enough here for about 20 alaias or 10 hollow longboards.

A low aspect ratio spitfire cutaway box fin

2010-12-15T18:41:00.000+13:00

This low aspect ratio paulownia spitfire cutaway fin is 10.5 inches deep and has a fibreglass fin tab, 5mm brass rods will be inserted to strengthen the connection:

Nearly ready for installation: the tuberculed spitfire fin for the Olo of the Sun...

The addition of leading-edge tubercles

2010-12-08T18:58:00.001+13:00

"The addition of leading-edge tubercles to a scale model of an idealized humpback whale flipper delays the stall angle by approximately 40%, while increasing lift and decreasing drag"
Fluid Physics

"a staggering 32% reduction in drag, 8% improvement in lift, and a 40% increase in angle of attack over smooth flippers before stalling"
http://www.asknature.org

"The swirling vortices inject momentum into the flow," said Howle. "This injection of momentum keeps the flow attached to the upper surface of the wing and delays stall to higher wind angles."
http://www.scienceagogo.com

Channel Islands and Kelly Slater, the experimental realm ?

2010-12-08T08:51:00.004+13:00

From the 'iPhone Diaries': A Peek into the Experimental Realm

The claim is that moving the stringer will change the axis of rotation of the surfboard. This is incorrect, as the axis of rotation is determined by the surfboard's area distribution and the position of the rider's feet, not by the stringer position.

According to the diagram below the surfboard will rotate around the stringer position, It will not.

Leverage cannot be increased by moving the stringer position ! The idea is laughable.

The premise is ridiculous and shows a complete misunderstanding of surfboard flex and hydrodynamics in general.

Any stringers should be on the perimeter of the board, this is just a weak excuse for a new fashion, fed to the extremely gullible and brainwashed surfing masses.

The idea follows the usual BS industry pattern of brain impaired rubbish with a famous name attached, so as far as the myth making marketing machine ( MMMM ) agenda goes it is perfectly valid. . . . it's just complete BS as a design concept.

Most people are so dumbed down and cowed by the corporations that they don't even attempt to think for themselves on this or any other subject.

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , Spitfire cutaway fin, foiling tubercules

2010-12-06T13:55:00.001+13:00

Foiling tubercules on the spitfire cutaway fin, for the Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard ,

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/12/olo-of-sun-19-foot-surfboard-spitfire_02.html

Surfboard flex and pressure distribution in planing hulls part 2

2010-12-04T16:23:00.006+13:00

kayu wrote:
Pressure distribution is mostly controlled by the rider and where he applies it. When the tail is buried , the pressure is on the tail if tapered will flex more"

Yes that is true however the greatest pressure will still be near the leading edge of the wetted surface area even when the board is trimmed aft during a turn. Trimming aft during a turn has the effect of shortening the wetted surface area. By shortening the wetted surface area the length of the beam has been shortened, this stiffens the surfboard and reduces flex.

That is why boards which require a rider position extremely close to the tail in order to turn are not ideal for flex. Compensating for a shortened wetted surface area during turns by making a short section of tail very flexible is not efficient due to the fact that it makes a kink in the rocker, and also it creates a drag inducing reverse rocker.

In addition to this, making the board very flexible over a short distance is ineffective as the soft flex and resulting rocker curve when bent further reduces pressure on the part of the board which has the least pressure, thus reducing the ability of the rider to store and release energy via weighting and unweighting. It also reduces feedback to the rider by placing the stiffest part of the board beneath his feet.

For the greatest benefits from flex the board should be designed to turn from a more forward position, which should also be the trimming position. If the rider has to walk forward in order to trim the board, and aft to turn, the weighting and unweighting motions required for efficient energy transfer become time consuming, ungainly, and lacking in both subtlety and power.

Keeping the fore and aft movement of the rider to the minimum also prevents the problem explained above whereby the wetted surface area is shortened, reducing flex at exactly the moment when the board is required to bend in order to store energy. Long flexible tails are more efficient than very short flexible ones as they can collect more energy with less increase in rocker curve

Of course there is a lot more to it than this, I'm just covering the basics.

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/12/surfboard-flex-and-pressure.html

Surfboard flex and pressure distribution in planing hulls

2010-12-04T11:24:00.005+13:00

Pressure distribution under the hull is a very important topic when discussing surfboard flex.

The simple entry level scenario for planing hulls is shown below. It's implications include those related to full hull flex vs tail tip only flex.

In the water pressure distribution is obviously different from the typical land test scenario whereby the board is supported at two points, with all the upwards 'beneath the hull' pressures located around those points, with none in between.

The diagram below applies to a steady state planing situation, pumping the surfboard and turning it will alter the pressure distribution and position of the stagnation line.

Those who advocate tail tip flex (as opposed to flexing the entire hull ) should not that there is very little pressure at the tail of the board ( at least for a typical surfboard, I'l explain exceptions to this rule later ) thus there is little force available for tail deflection.

If on the other hand the entire board flexes then much more of the water pressure can be used to flex the board, thus increasing efficiency dramatically.

Rider stance and board length complicate the issue somewhat, particularly with shortboards, but the basic analysis is correct, and is a good place to start.

http://www.bluejacketboats.com/planing_boat_theory1.htm

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , Spitfire cutaway fin, adding tubercules

2010-12-02T13:47:00.000+13:00

Tubercules being added to the Olo of the Sun's spitfire cutaway fin:

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , Spitfire cutaway fin

2010-12-01T20:29:00.001+13:00

Here's the 13 inch spitfire cutaway fin for the Olo of the Sun taking shape, when set into the board the tab below the cutaway won't be seen.

The faceted cutaway is a development of the radial cutaways used on previous fins, and is of the type used in 1940's spitfire tailplanes.

Leading edge tubercules will be added next...

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , fin foiling commences

2010-11-30T20:48:00.000+13:00

Fin foiling commences on the Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard