Everything in my surfing philosophy follows from the idea of pure surfing. To purify surfing I discard that which isn't necessary to the experience. We hear of old school and new school but my philosophy is 'Easy School". It's simply about being there. There's a lot of clutter and social expectations out there in the water and I prefer to leave all that behind, making the experience more primeval.
Eliminating arbitrary land based criteria is vital. The commercial mass market surf industry thrives on and could not survive without arbitrary rules and surfing tricks, which are part of a land based corporate group mindset. It is merely an unwanted burden to the free thinker who wishes to transcend earthly matters and enter a more meditative zone by riding waves.
2 comments:
Hi Roy, coud you please tel me the length of the board your hoding in the pic above, im moving house in two weeks and will finally have a space to buid the board from the kit you sent me. The kit was for a 9'8FP, but i may look at going longer.Thanks.
Hi Adrift, that's the 12 foot FP 'Ghost'. It feels and rides like a smaller board than the length suggests, I think that you'd be very pleased at the result going up in size, I have a fresh roll of plans paper here too so let me know if you want the templates.
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