Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , fin foiling commences

Fin foiling commences on the Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , making the paulownia wood fin panel

Making the paulownia wood fin panel for theOlo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard:

The Olo of the Sun will have a 13.5 inches deep spitfire cutaway fin, made from 6 layers of 3mm laminated paulownia. Here's the first layer, the panel will also make an 11 inch spitfire fin for a smaller board.

The underside of the panel is held together with masking tape at the joins, this also stops the resin from running out. Clear epoxy resin as applied:

Layer two is added:

The tape is removed

Ready for the final and sixth layer:

Fred Flintstone's clamping system

Early summer poppies...

Flex frequency and harmonics in surfboards part two: The sweet spot

In response to Pablo's recent comment on the subject of harmonic nodes in surfboards  ( in blue )   

This is a fascinating subject. Would you be willing to elaborate further on the relationship between harmonic nodes and board performance? Would you mind showing the location of the main nodes on the Olo of the Sun? Are you able to calculate with a fair amount of accuracy where they'd be located, prior to building the board?

Hello Pablo.

There is a primary node approximately in the centre of the board. This is convenient as it is also the designed position of the sweet spot not only in harmonic terms but also in hydrodynamic and control terms. The position of the node depends upon the position of the rider, it moves fore and aft with the rider, but only up to a point. If the rider moves too far from the sweet spot, the rider and the node of rotation part company. This happens also with swords. If Mr Pearce moves his grip from behind the guard down the grip towards the pommel the node on the blade will move further towards the tip.  Also the 'sweetness of the sweet spot ' depends upon the width of the grip or in the case of the surfer the fore and aft width of the stance. A wide grip or stance means that there is a dampening effect. This happens because with a wide grip the pressure is inevitably spread into an area ahead of and behind the node of rotation where movement occurs.  Thus with swords, one  finds that a grip with both hands placed closer together gives a sweeter strike than one with the hands spaced far apart ( as one can do with some very long gripped swords ). Likewise with the surfboard, a narrow stance makes the board immeasurably more lively and responsive, and enables greater subtlety of communication between wave, surfboard, and rider to occur, and less dampening

Wider grips and stances allow greater leverage to be exerted, and this is useful at times, it's a coarser control setting, to be used when required. For the best response the stance and grip wil be made narrower when possible.

I'm of the opinion that useful harmonic  nodes and frequencies are an inevitable result of the  harmony  in all aspects of board design which occurs when successfully pursuing functional design aims.  Specifically, a riding position near the centre of the board ( which has general handling benefits ) a low thicknes to length ratio ( for low centre of gravity and flex) , and other aspects of board design e.g. rocker and planshape curve, when  matched coherently, all have simple hydrodynamic and ergonomic advantages, as well as excellent harmonic properties. Without calculating the position of the node mathematically, it seems that the happy harmonic characteristics come hand in hand with matched foils and perfect geometrically generated curves.


It seems to me that the existence of nodes of rotation which will not move as energy transfered onto the board results in a harmonic vibration has tremendous implications, both whether the energy comes from the effort of the rider or the wave itself. A board thus finetuned would, for example, be magical in terms of absorbing energy from water irregularities--especially in big waves--without decreased performance , provided the rider stands at or near the node, right?--just as shock waves going through a sword upon striking would not affect the hand holding it at the blade's lower node of rotation.
 
Yes, that's quite right,  and the feeling and results do indeed feel magical.  Propelling the surfboard forwards via a weighting and unweighting motion transferred through the tail of the board into a dolphion tail motion is a well known phenomenon, but there is a vast realm of subtleties in the wave/board/rider interaction which can also occur. As the surfboard meets irregularities in the surface and the rider responds to the harmonic vibration which these interactions set up, there are gains in speed and control. This is the case even with the tiniest most imperceptible high frequency  rider movements  and the smallest of wave surface textures.  The results include at times appearing to do little, but going far. 

Regarding wave size, it is speed rather than wave height which has the most influence. Wave height and surfboard speed are somewhat related, but it is the speed which counts. As speed increases the harmonic response  becomes crisper,  more distinct, and more powerful.

The results are so remarkable that I've been wondering if by constantly  communicating with the water in this way one can reduce friction by feeling water pressure on the board and adjusting it to keep it flowing smoothly, in much the same way that the fingers behave when paddling, but possibly with an added harmonic relationship between the frequency of vibration of the water molecules and that of the surfboard and rider.      


Remarkable! This adds true depth of meaning to the expression "sweet spot". What a way to feel the wave!


PS.: I assume it would be nearly impossible for a harmonic resonance to ever develop.

Regards,

Pablo

All the best Pablo, it's great to hear from you, and I hope that you are enjoying your big wave season  ! 

We'll see if we can get some video footage of the harmonics on the 19 foot Olo of the Sun

Roy 

See also:

http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/11/flex-frequency-and-harmonics-in.html


http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/02/resonance-in-wooden-surfboards-balsa-vs.html

Flex frequency and harmonics in surfboards

For any given surfboard volume, greater flex will be achieved ( in a longboard or a board ridden with a narrow stance) via a parallel profile than a profile which is thicker in the middle and tapered at the ends. It is simple physics.

In addition to this, for any given board volume, doming the decks  will drastically reduce flex.

It is trendy for shapers these days to make knowledgeable noises about surfboard flex but the reality is that most of it is bluff.

The flex frequency is also very important, as are the harmonics.

Regarding frequency, although even a high frequency flex or resonance is beneficial, ideally the frequency matches the range of the frequency of weighting and unweighting moves used by the rider. Most surfboards have a very high in the water flex frequency, and the frequency is always much higher in the water than on land.

Harmonics is an interesting aspect of flex and is used by sword makers in order to determine sweet spots on the blade and handle. In my opinion superior harmonics are achieved via mathematically generated curves, as these do not have the anomalies which arbitrary spline based curves inevitably produce.

Here' the Olo of the Sun today, one flexible board ...

Just to clarify in response to a question received today:  In discussing flex harmonics I'm not talking about a sound, as the flex harmonics are of a low frequency which is inaudible to the human ear.

What I AM talking about is harmonic nodes ( where the sine curves intersect) and; these do affect performance.

There are at least two main nodes and several secondary ones on my longer boards, these are visible to the naked eye as the low frequency flex pulsates from nose to tail.and back again. . . . . .  it is quite remarkable to behold !

Here's a video from Michael 'Tinker' Pearce showing sword harmonics, and the nodes of rotation one of which is known as the centre of percussion. I can show exactly the same phenomenon on my latest surfboard.

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard , more hand sanding. . . . .

Another four and a half hours of hand sanding to fair the bottom of the Olo of the Sun, deck and rail facets, that part of the job is now about half done.

Hand sanding imparts an energy to the wooden surfboard, and is good exercise.

I'm getting used to the 19 foot size, and was surprised when I went up to the shop today and the 12 footers looked like shortboards.

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard, shaping continues part 2

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard, shaping continues.  The first rail facets are marked, 152 feet of pen line with the trusty wooden marking gauge.

Here the nose rocker is accentuated due to the wide angle of the camera lens

The  50/50 rail is slightly 'pinched' or 'egged', I like the feel of pinched rails on  longer boards of  17 feet and over, they give a smoother and more stately ride. 

The nose. . .

The tail. . . .

Weight is now down to 45 pounds, which is rather light for such a long craft, but the board will gain some mass when the resin coats and fins are added.

Olo of the Sun 19 foot surfboard, shaping continues

The 19 foot surfboard 'Olo of the Sun' being shaped today, which entails hand sanding the bottom prior to marking the rail facets, weight is now 3 pounds less at 52 pounds.

Olo of the Sun, shaping commences

The olo of the sun reveals its shape, the lamination is tight and the board feels flxible but strong

Olo of the Sun, cutting out the planshape

Here's the 19 foot board having the planshape marked and cut out, that's over 38 ft of hand sawing.

The board is extremely flexible with a low frequency to the oscillation compared with previous boards, with the planshape cut the Olo weighs 55 pounds.

Olo of the Sun, the bottom panel lamination

Here's the final lamination phase for the 19 foot 'Olo of the sun'.  The inside of the bottom panel is being sealed with epoxy resin.

The bottom panel is then put to one side

Thickened epoxy resin is applied to the rails and frames

On goes the bottom. . .

And the high tech clamping system ;)

A question from 'Oldschool' ( A.L. ) regarding surfing industry scientific marketing and brainwashing

So, if I decide (after winning lotto) to shell out $528,000 for one of your boards Roy am I making a conscious decision of my own accord or are you mind controlling me because your advertising has altered my mindset?  A.L.

If you did so then it would be more of an individual decision than if you bought a corporate product.

The 'advertising' I use doesn't even begin to approach what scientific global marketing achieves in terms of altering behaviour. In order to do that I'd have to do what the surf industry does, which is to create a complete and coherent multifaceted surfing world . . . that costs billions of dollars and can't be done with a single website.


People often make the mistake of thinking that marketing equals advertising, when in reality the overt advertisements one sees are the tip of the iceburg beneath which there are massive programmes of 'below the line' advertising and suchlike.

The goal is to create a complete mindset or surfing world view within which the consumer operates while never realising that they are inside the box so to speak.

That can't be done by placing a few ads.

Once the mindset is in place ( it comes complete with a half century 'history' and countless other legitimising features, one of which is endless repetition ) people can latch on to it by selling products which follow currently marketed trends. . . but if the product type is not being pushed by the industry then it's a no go.

Why 19 feet ? A question from Downsouth

Roy - I understand that with the extra length, there will be an increase in flex but at 19 feet - surely the extra length will severly limit the size or shape of waves it can surf?

It will simultaneously limit the waves which can be surfed and open up new territory which can be surfed.

So it depends upon the point of view, a hidebound pessimist would say that it is limiting, a creative optimist will say that it is liberating.

very long boards in hollow waves, 20ft plus paddle skis have been tubed at Burleigh heads for example, but of course the length does limit the turning arcs so one has to be committed.!

I guess a realist will see it being a bit of both. What is the idea behind the length at 19ft though - is it solely to open up the possibility of riding waves that other boards cannot? If so - what kind of waves?
I guess I'm just curious to the purpose of this board as your other designs seem in my mind, to have a focus.


It's definitely focussed in my mind, but that doesn't mean that everyone understands it.

The benefits of greater length and flex have to be experienced to be properly understood. I've had two very long boards with a thickness to length ratio of around 1/100 ( a 14'9" and a 13'9" ) and the experience riding them is one I'd like to repeat.

Length wise, it's an exploration of the joys and advantages of greater length. When I went from 9 feet to 12 in 1997, the results were amazing. From 12 up to 13, 14, 15 and 17 feet all opened up new capabilities, and given that the ancient olo boards were ridden  up to 25 feet long, we think that 19 and 21 feet will be very useful lengths.


I realise that this doesn't answer your question. If you really want it answered then the only way is to do it physically, as words can disect the experience but cannot transmit the feeling ( at least not with my writing skills)  . . that's the method I use and it is very rewarding.

Of  course I haven't ridden the board yet so  I can't give a complete answer, at this stage it's all extrapolation, projection and anticipation. I definitely feel  a sense of trepidation when. visualising riding the Olo of the Sun, as i know what it feels like to take off on a 17 footer . . . chilled but excited, and definitely committed, like piloting a dropping bomb perhaps.

The weight is a vital part of the equation too. . . a very long surfboard needs mass, and mass is a major part of the experience.

Derek Hynd interview with Mary Mills at Liquid Salt

"The cor­po­ra­tion shapes surf­ing. The cor­po­ra­tion pays for per­for­mance. The cor­po­ra­tion pushes the mes­sage. The cor­po­ra­tion wins over those who buy the line. Any­one who surfs for them­selves, rides boards from their own space, distances them­selves from as much bull­shit as is pos­si­ble is doing a beau­ti­ful job."  Derek Hynd

http://www.liquidsaltmag.com/2010/11/derek-hynd/

Usually that point in the interview would be the signal for name dropping every corporate shaper's tree identity the interviewee can think of.

Olo of the Sun, second frame panel & frame ties

Here's the 19 foot Olo of the Sun surfboard with the second frame panel laminated on to the first.. .

Next frame ties are added to some of the frame junctions. These are designed to resist internal pressure which might threaten the frame junction glue joints  if the board is accidentally left unvented on a hot day.

A small bevel to accomodate the glue fillet  at the deck/frame connection