Friday, 30 April 2010

A conversation with Rob Lion of royal surfboards and Ray F on surfboard fin lift, fin drag, hydrofoil fins, fin size and finless surfboards

This conversation started with a review of the 'wavegrinder' fin and the manufacturer's comment that the fin can be bolted on to any surfboard in order to improve performance, without taking the surfboard tail rocker into account . The manufacturer claims that all one needs to do is set the fin so that the winglets are parallel to the surfboard bottom.




Fins with horizontal wing area aligned parallel to the surfboard bottom do not work well on boards with anything other than very low tail rockers, regardless of what the manufacturers say.

Such fins need suitable boards and they are only a small percentage of boards.

Selling them as a bolt on to any board which will improve performance is misleading advertising in my opinion.

Also, I think that it's useful to remember when talking about drag that it's the fin's lift/drag ratio that counts more than just the fin's drag. For example if the fin is increased in size in order to do some of the lifting work usually done by the surfboard hull, the overall surfboard/fin drag can be less even though the fin drag is higher.

Often these days we are fed the idea ( recently by Skip frye for example ) that more fin equals more drag and therefore a slower board, but that is an erroneous assumption.

An example is hydrofoil tow in boards which obviously have lower drag than conventional boards but are all fin and have more fin area than most conventional boards ( by conventional here I mean planing craft )

Ray F:

Regardless of planshape & foil, more of any fin will result in more drag. As you point out, however, all planshape/foil combinations are not equal in the lift they provide in comparison to the drag they impose. This being said, all hulls require certain amonts of lift from there fins, in order to turn in the desired fashion. So, in essence, the goal is to provide enough fin for the desired effect, but no more.

I don't believe I'm fed this, as much as conclude it from basic physics, logic & reasoning.

Do you not agree, Roy?


Hello Ray, no I don't

I'll try to explain more clearly.

You say that fins need to produce a certain amount of lift in order to turn but no more. That's not true . Fins also in many cases produce upwards lift. This lift does the same job as planing based and buoyancy based lift from the hull of the surfboard. I illustrated the extreme case of such lift by using the example of a hydrofoil board which is lifted out of the water.

When a fin produces lift which takes pressure off the bottom of the surfboard it reduces the drag ( and the lift ) produced by the hull of the surfboard. Because of this it is not te case that larger fins necessarily add to the overall drag of the surfboard, and in fact larger fins can reduce the overall drag of the surfboard by producing lift more efficiently than the surfboard hull does.

Obvious examples of fins which do this are ones which have horizontal lift area. These include all canted fins, and fins with horizontal winglets, as well as tunnel fins. As explained here previously however, vertical planar fins are also able to produce the kind of lift I've been describing in some circumstances.

By the way it's also not true that "Regardless of planshape & foil, more of any fin will result in more drag" even if just talking about fin drag without taking hull drag into account.

The myth that more fin area necessarily slows a board down can be found all over the surfing industry, and it's become much more common recently due to the finless craze. The myth is supposedly based on physics as desribed by yourself, but it is an incomplete explanation and therefore not always correct.


Rob Lion:

totally agree with Roy on this line of thought. Well said!

I think there is something to be said for eliminating/reducing fins all together, but that requires a different design manifesto, and will have to be debated on a different thread... :wink:

Having ridden longboards for a long time, I think it is silly to think that more fin means more drag. It does stiffen the board which makes it feel slower, but if the fin is foiled correctly, it could create more lift and stability. Some of the fastest logs I've had have huge fins, some fairly crude(old 60s boards) and some more refined. More importantly, as has been said, the bottom curve of the board has to present the fin to the oncoming water at the correct angle or you're asking for trouble.

This more fin argument can also be debated by the example of the traditional fish crew. Some of those things have a 10" base, 6" deep. That's a boatload of fin/keel, yet they are faster/looser than a lot of "normal" boards by a mile...

Ray F:

I understand the concept behind hydrofoils, but I'm not making the connection. The horizontal surfaces of hydrofoils (with a certain amount of angle of attack) provide an incredible amount of surface area to which exert verticle lift by means of Bernoulli's principle. This not only pushes from below, but more importantly lifts from above.

All other things being the same, a 10" deep by 1/8" wide vertical fin would require an expotentially greater amount of relative flow in order to receive a much, much less amount vertical lift. Because there is no upper camber (as in a horizontal wing), the low pressure area doesn't exist to assist in vertical lift. This being the case, only hydroplaning (less efficiency) is taking place...and that's only being applied to a 1/8" wide by 10" deep area...depending on rake.

To exactly which area of a vertical surfboard fin is force being applied in order to induce significant vertical lift the hull? What am I missing?

Rob are you saying with all other things being equal, a longer fin does not create more drag than a shorter fin with the same exact foil & cord?

Rob Lion:

Ray, from personal experience, I have a few longboards with boxes in them, and have tried loads of fins from hatchets, to hull flex fins. I have yet to find a fin that makes the board faster overall. The difference between the hatchet and hull fin is when I hit the bottom turn, the board reacted "faster" with the hull fin, but it didn't start beating sections (just trimming) that I could make with the hatchet. The hatchet is 10" and the hull flex is 9" FWIW. So, the hull fin is smaller in both depth, and area, but was no faster in trim, due to the limit of the board's design. Turns however, were much snappier and smoother with the flex fin, where the hatchet naturally wanted to pivot/stall turn.

And that brings me to my point, that I think what a lot of people overlook when talking about fins and all that is a fin's design will cause you to ride the board differently from one design to another. This can create that feeling of radical speed and maneuverability. If you have a fin that is lively, and turns sharply, you are going to be cutting it up, always on your rails - which alters the discussion as you are now taking all sorts of other factors into consideration. If you have a fin that wants to stall or pivot, you are going to go in a "straighter" line, and ride mostly on one rail which feels slower since it is less active(not really but you know what I mean.) So, which "feels" faster, the one that is always turning, or the guy blazing down the line in trim?

My money is on the bet that neither one is actually "faster" but the impression each approach to riding is altered. After all, a boards design will only go so fast no matter what fin you put on it, unless that fin creates some sort of vertical lift that presents the hull to the water at a different angle - which is what I would imagine one of Roy's tunnels would do, for example.

Ray F. wrote:
I understand the concept behind hydrofoils, but I'm not making the connection. The horizontal surfaces of hydrofoils (with a certain amount of angle of attack) provide an incredible amount of surface area to which exert verticle lift by means of Bernoulli's principle. This not only pushes from below, but more importantly lifts from above.


Hi Ray

Actually the lift produced by immersed foils can be explained equally well via Bernoulli's principle or by Newtonian physics ( the Coanda effect )

The amount of area used is irrelevant to the principle involved. For example the small wavegrinder winglet will provide some lift against the bottom of the surfboard, thereby relieving some of the load on the bottom, in the same way that a hull lifting hydrofoil will.

The main point I was making about increases in fin size was that if the lift produced replaces hull lift then there is an opportunity to reduce the overall drag of the surfboard.

Even completely flat plates produce lift in the same way that cambered wings do. The low pressure areas still exist. inverted wings ( i.e. aircraft flying upside down ) also produce lift which can be explained via Bernoulli's principle.

In fact extremely thin fins with low chord ratios are known to have good lift/drag ratios in low angle of attack situations.

Vertical fin area provides vertical lift whenever the board is rolled away from a horizontal position. This is noticeable when the board is in trim on steep parts of the wave. This lift component is vertical i.e.it is at 90 degrees to the surface of the earth, rather than at 90 degrees to the surfboard hull.


Firstly one needs to ask whether the fin you are discussing is vertical or horizontal, as that makes a big diference, as explained. If it is horizontal then any increase in area prior to sufficient lift being produced to lift the hull clear of the water is likely to reduce overall drag.

Secondly ( assuming a vertical fin ) increases in fin area can reduce overall drag by reducing load on the hull in some situations as explained. Larger fins operate at lower pressure so are less likely to enter inefficient stall situations.

Thirdly we are not restricted to "all else being equal" . . . some fin configurations have less drag than others due to their shape, foil etc, so can be used in larger sizes without a drag penalty.

One has to be careful talking about straight lines in surfing, as some people erroneously believe that trimming across a wall is a straight line situation. In reality surfing in a straight line only occurs when moving at 90 degress to the wave front which is very unusual. Furthermore from the point of view of fins a board which has toed in side fins is NEVER able to travel ' in a straight line' as one of the fins is always under load. Likewise a board with horizontal fin area ( including those with canted side fins) can never be considered to be travelling in a straight line from the point of view of the fins except when airborne.



Regarding 'quantifiably faster' I measure surfing speed on occasion but the vast majority of manufacturers and surfers do not. So one should be careful drawing conclusions about what is quantifiably faster.

Ray you appear to be assuming that a board which is 'faster in a straight line' ( whatever that means ) is less maneuverable than other boards which are slower in a straight line. This is not necessarily the case.


Wetted surface area drag is only one of several kinds of drag produced by fins
and hulls.

Some fins are lower in overall drag even though they have higher wetted surface area.

Also, as already explained, if the fin reduces load on the surfboard hull it can reduce overall surfboard drag by reducing hull pressure and/or wetted surface area


Ray F:

To use Roy's example of a hydrofoil, the foils aren't 5 times wider than the craft. Why? Because after the required amount of lift is achieved, the extra surface area is needless drag.

Yes that's right and it also follows that in the case of foils which reduce load on the hull, the potential to reduce overall drag ( by increasing fin area ) exists up until the hull lifts clear of the water.

Also large fins can be more efficient than smaller ones due to the fact that they can operate at lower pressure .

It all depends as they say, and the 'less fin is always faster ' mantra we hear is false ! Keep in mind that this mantra is not qualified by "once the most efficient fin size has been achieved any further fin area is detrimental to speed' or anything like that, no it is used to try and prove that finless boards are necessarily faster than all finned boards . . . which is obviously NOT the case. . . finless is just a different approach and is not necessarily faster !


Ray F:

Hi, Roy. Just to establish some common ground, we need to differentiate the relative lift of a foil. It's commonly accepted that "lift" is the relative force that takes place along the camber of a foil. In a common vertical surfboard fin, it provides the ability to pivot left or right. I specifically state "vertical lift," to describe any exertion of force that moves the board to a higher location in regards to the waterline. The same effects of lift that occur on the common vertical surfboard fin (pivoting the board right or left) create are taking part on a hydrofoil when the hull raises out of the water. In both cases, the foil has a 2 cambers (either left & right or upper & lower. Bernoulli's principleapplies in both cases.

Where Bernoulli's principle doesn't apply is providing vertical lift to a surfboard with a common vertical surfboard fin. There is no upper camber to provide a low pressure draw. It can only be pushed (or hydroplaned) off of a raked fin. At the average surfing speeds, the amount of force exerted on the leading edge of a raked fin cannot raise a board out of the water with any significance. I don't argue that it is impossible. I just stand firm that under natural conditions, it's not enough to provide a noticable difference.


Firstly as mentioned my previous post fins do not require 'camber' in order to provide lift. The low pressure area exists with uncambered flat plate fins and with inverted foils ( e.g. aircraft flying upside down still creates a low pressure area above the wing ). All fin and wing based lift can also be explained by Newtonian physics ( The coanda effect ) . .. the explanations amount to the same thing. People who were taught the bernoulli explanation often mistakenly believe that camber on the top or low pressure side of a wing is required in order to produce lift, and also commonly believe that more camber is required on top of a wing than on the underside in order to produce lift. Both assumptions are incorrect.

Secondly I'm not suggesting that raked leading edges provide significant vertical lift. Vertical fins provide vertical lift when they are canted by rolling the surfboard on to the rail. We are using the term 'vertical lift' ambiguously, it can mean vertical in relation to the surfboard bottom or vertical in relation to the earth's surface i.e. opposing gravity. When a vertical fin is canted during trimming, angled drops or top turns it takes load off the surfboard bottom by lifting against gravity. Such situations comprise the majority of the time spent on a wave, and thus vertical fins can be designed to use this opportunity to generate vertical lift, and in doing so larger vertical fins are an advantage.
Ray F:
I'm sorry. I've reviewed my posts and cannot figure out how to make it any clearer. I understand the concept of reducing the hull's surface in the water in regards to reducing drag. I believe, at this point, the intent of this thread is beginning to derail. I apologize if I have confused anybody, but I was only reviewing a fin. I did not mean to segway so deeply into hydrofoils & theoretical planshapes as much as address practical (and available) fins from a physics standpoint.


The wavegrinder fin is a 'hydrofoil' fin whether we like it or not because it has horizontal wing area.

Due to its depth below the hull it will lift against the surfboard bottom in the fin box area even though it is set up parallel to the bottom of the surfboard in that area.

The point about vertical fins being used to create vertical lift, and the consequent use of larger fins is one of the cornerstones of my surfboard designs and I have never seen anyone demonstrate understanding of it yet, even though it is esentially very simple.

Rob and Ray I  hope that you have enjoyed the discussion so far, I certainly have.

http://royalsurfboards.blogspot.com/

http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=22477&p=313341#p313341

 

Tuesday, 27 April 2010

The Baron 12 foot wooden surfboard on vimeo


The Baron 12 foot wooden surfboard from Roy stewart on Vimeo.
The Baron 12 foot paulownia wooden surfboard prototype the D 11-9 being ridden in the Bay of Plenty New Zealand.

A new paulownia wood Baron is available for immediate delivery at http://olosurfer-woodensurfboardsatpipeline.blogspot.com/2010/04/baron-12-foot-paulownia-wooden.html

Friday, 23 April 2010

Building the 'Jet' 7'8" wooden surfboard: Frame panel construction

Building the 'Jet' 7'8" wooden surfboard: Frame panel construction

Sunday, 18 April 2010

The Baron 12 foot paulownia wooden surfboard




The exclusive Baron is one of the most expensive luxury surfboards on planet Earth at US$528,000
 
Distinctive military 'Art Brut' tangential lines of the Baron are a classic example of form and art  following function.  The board is wickedly efficient, experience the ride of a lifetime and a functional work of art which is a great investment and will appreciate in value for generations to come.


Builder: Roy Stewart
Length: 12 feet
Width: 27 inches
Thickness: 2.5 inches
Weight: 40 pounds
Volume: 150 litres ( approximately)
Construction: Parallel profile 4 layer paulownia

The Baron is a development of the very successful D 11-9.   The flex  fin shown here evolved from the bulb tipped flex fin used on the D 11-9  and is an extremely flexible  model with an exceptionally low chord ratio.  The fin is so flexible that it can be moved through a six  inch arc at the trailing edge with only moderate  finger pressure.

In the picture below some of  the oscillation can be seen :


































































Saturday, 17 April 2010

World's most famous surfboard

" I thought only Roy would make a claim like that..."

PaulJensen...


 http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/worlds-most-famous-surfboard

Roy Stewart's 12 foot 'Future Primitive' design could well be the world's most famous surfboard.

It is certainly one of the most rare, desirable and expensive surfboards on the planet !








Friday, 16 April 2010

Resin coating wood surfboards without fibreglass cloth

We tape underneath the rail to prevent drips as shown. This allows the coats from deck and bottom to lap over each other, thus making double the number of coats. Because the rails are vertical more or less the resin tends to run off so more coats are needed and lapping them takes care of it.



Two brushed coats are done  at first with the second coat following within a few minutes of the first. Most resins will bond chemically within 24 hours without sanding but sometimes get an amine blush or B reaction on the surface which prevents the resin coats making contact with each other. The resin I'm using at present does this quite quickly so I do the second coat almost immediately, this works out well as surprisingly the second coat seems to go on top of the first even while the first is still runny.


Once the first double coat has gone off overnight I sand it with 40 or 60 grit and apply another double coat. The sanding gets rid of any blush, basically all shininess has to be removed.

All going well the third coat is a single one ( a single coat is smoother ) but if necessary i.e. if there is any sand through or more fairing is needed a 4th coat single  can be done.

The board should be turned over as soon as the first side has set enough to allow it, after the rails have been sanded and a new masking tape skirt has been applied.

The same process is repeated on the other side.

With each coat it's a good idea to spot  fill any imperfections when the coat has gone semi hard but still tacky.  This can be done with left over tack resin or resin with sone sanding dust added. Rather than trying to smooth the resin on to the spot being filled it's often better to just dab it on so that it sticks up and doesn't spread out. The protruding bit will sand off more easily that way. Of course if there's a gap which goes into the board deeply one should push the repair glop in as far as possible.

Once all the coats are done I usually leave the board for a week or so to cure.  That makes sure that all the coats are of equal hardness, otherwise the top coats  can be softer and sand off too easily. With hard resin coarser wet and dry grit should be used for longer than with softer recently cured resin, otherwise if the grit is too fine at first one ends up polishing the tops of bumps and into hollows rather than fairing them.



Natural bristle brushes are best, freezing the brushes can allow them to be re used. We don't use any solvent for cleaning up, it's easier to just avoid making a mess.

For a perfect finish several micro thin coats can be done with a foam roller, only 50 to 100mls is needed per coat, with fine wet and dry sanding between coats. 

Some resins are designed specifically for getting a build up, but I just use a standard laminating resin. Glass cloth is used as a resin dam preventing resin running off rails and as  fairing compound which makes things easier but itchier.

A pilot hole where the vent is going to go is a good idea too, to prevent pressure buildup inside the board as the resin heats up during cooling, this can force air out through the resin making pinholes and potential leaks later.

Thursday, 15 April 2010

Mount Maunganui Main Beach




The FP 12 in action at the Main Beach Mt Maunganui.

On this day the car park was absolutely packed with surfers, but there were only three of us out and i was the only one to make any waves, getting long left handers all the way to the inside blowhole corner.



It was high tide with a difficult to negotiate backwash which made the waves throw unpredictably, and they broke so fast down the line that the other guys were buried by the time they made the drop, every time.

Two days before it has been 3 times overhead and I'd been out the back of the blowhole alone, surfed for three hours until I got hammered on the head when attempting to roll a huge set in the rapidly rising swell, without the helmet i might not have made it but got a massive lump on the head and a long swim in.

The next day the swell rose to 24 feet plus and closed out the harbour entrance. No one ventured out The picture is the day after that, the swell had dropped a lot but was cranking.

Wednesday, 14 April 2010

Olo riding

Olo riding isn't just about the length of the board it's about weight.

These two surfboards both weigh in at around 70 pounds.



Tuesday, 13 April 2010

Olo versus Olo

Here we have a Tom Wegener replica of King Paki's 16ft Olo board being surfed by Dave 'Rasta' Rastovich.


Make it hard school taken to a ridiculous degree, I suppose they had to try though.



Here's a 17 ft Roy Stewart Olo, from the make it easy school.


Olo riding: The 17 foot Power olo surfboard at Tay st Mount Maunganui from Roy stewart on Vimeo.

Building the 'Jet' 7'8" wooden surfboard: The tunnel fin



Foiling tunnel fins can be very tricky, especially on the inside of the fin.

This setup makes the job easy, hopefully it is self explanatory. The fin is of course the 4 inch diameter tunnel for the 7'8" Jet ' semi gun'









Sunday, 11 April 2010

'Jet' 7'8" pintail wooden surfboard



Here's the cutaway spitfire fin for the 7'8" 'Jet' being foiled today. The fin is 6 laminations of 3mm Paulownia.




The 4 inch diameter tunnel fin will sit neatly inside the cutaway. My hand represents the bottom of the surfboard


Chord ratios will be 15% on the base, and 8% just above the cutaway. The complete fin system is 9 inches high and 9 inches long ( fore and aft ). It is a very powerful setup.

Building the 'Jet' 7'8" wooden surfboard

Here's the 4 inch diameter paulownia vort-x tunnel for the 7'8" Jet being foiled


The deck panel cut out and ready for gluing

Saturday, 10 April 2010

Undercalling of wave height


A few comments on the global pandemic of undercalling wave height.

The back of the wave measurement theory for the genesis of the undercalling trend is a myth, check how the undercalling trend started in Hawaii . .. it was started as a deliberate means of lying about wave height.

That's a historical fact.

So the whole thing is based on lies and people only attempt to legitimise it now because they are so breathlessly infatuated by Hawaii and because their position in the global surf hierarchy depends on feelings and displays of inadequacy and false humility

The fact is every wave has an actual height measurable in feet, or metric units. .. in fact any fixed unit will do. The problem starts when people use known units but then change their length for social reasons.

Anyone who calls the waves BP and posted under 7 or 8 feet has sold their soul to the marketing machine, and simultaneously committed intellectual suicide. This can be seen daily on this forum as logic takes a backseat to social posturing and other w*nkery.

As mentioned previously the power in a wave increases by the square as wave height increases.

Because of this, undercalling by indeterminate amounts as people do, obscures the real power of the wave even more than just using actual wave height does, it's simple mathematics.

Given that people use wave height as a mark of how tough they are it is ludicrous to undercall when wave height is already a poor means of estimating wave power.

None of which matters at all to the undercalling morons. . all they want to do is blend into the corporate hierarchy, which as explained previously uses depression and inadequacy as one of its main control tools.

Undercalling is a classic symptom of the tyranny of induced depression which is used in global marketing.





Thursday, 8 April 2010

The make it easy school of wave riding and the make it hard school of surfing.



There are two schools of thought: One is that one should make surfing as difficult as possible, the other is to make it as easy as possible.

The make it difficult school has many members, the make it easy school has few.

I prefer to make surfing as easy as possible, doing so does not stop the rider from learning it merely removes unecessary impediments to learning. When surfing is made easy one's attention and ability is able to be applied to subtleties which the difficult school don't have time or attention to understand. .. . it also enables one to make more waves.

No matter how easy one makes surfing there are always challenges.

Whatever you do, try to think for yourself, and treat all advice with extreme suspicion ( a paradox in this case :wink: ). Those who advise you are usually wanting to make sure that you join the herd, that is the main reason why they parrot the marketing myths of the day. They will try to tell you what is and isn't pleasurable or appropriate. One has to decide why one is surfing, most people do it just to be part of a group, but there are better reasons.

Of course they deny all this but once one is alerted to their tactics it becomes clear what's going on.

Breaking free of the intense social pressure exerted by the surfing group will cause one to be ostracised but ultimately grudgingly respected. To the true surfer the grudging respect is only useful because it keeps the herd out of the way while one takes off.. . it has no social value at all, nor does the ridicule.

Wednesday, 7 April 2010

New 'how to' manual: Building the 'Original Sim' 5'6" wooden surfboard



"The Simmons surfboard is as strange an apparition today as it was when it first appeared. In its time it broke all the rules of the day. It represents a shift from heavy displacement to light displacement along with the application of scientific theory. It was a radical departure, far ahead of its time. . ."

John Elwell on Bob Simmons 1994 The Surfer's Journal



The book can be previewed live in the box below, please be patient it can take a while to load. ..

Sunday, 4 April 2010

'Jet' 7'8" pintail wooden surfboard



Add Image
'Jet' 7'8" pintail wooden surfboard

This board is a development of our original heart series 7'5" from 1995, and is powered with a cutaway spitfire plus tunnel fin.

Construction is underway with the deck panel and fin panels made.


Friday, 2 April 2010

The Future Primitive 9'8" hollow wooden surfboard design by Roy Stewart

The Future Primitive 9'8" is the smallest board in the FP series so far.

Here's the planshape which was designed today:



Dimensions: 9'8" by 24" by 2.25"

Construction: Six layer parallel profile hollow paulownia wood