We were expecting the cyclone swell to have come in, but were too early so the waves at Clyde st were marginal. . . . . waist high and weak to the point that the few surfers out were not really getting any rides at all. In spite of this, armed with the new 12-9 I was able to catch at least 20 waves, most of which gave a long ride to the beach. The board catches waves like a dream and is utra smooth to ride, I caught every wave I paddled for except one.
The swell should be a lot bigger on Monday so we look forward to riding the board in some more powerful waves.
"What did I want? I wanted the hurtling moons of Barsoom. I wanted Storisende and Poictesme, and Holmes shaking me awake to tell me, "The games' afoot!" I wanted to float down the Mississippi on a raft and elude a mob in company with the Duke of Bilgewater and the Lost Dauphin. I wanted Prester John and Excalibur held by a moon-white arm out of a silent lake. I wanted to sail with Ulysses and with Tros of Samothrace and eat the lotus in a land that seemed always afternoon. I wanted the feeling of romance and the sense of wonder I had known as a kid.
"How would you like to stand like a God before the crest of a monster billow, always rushing to the bottom of a hill and never reaching its base, and to come rushing in for a half mile at express speed, in graceful attitude, until you reach the beach and step easily from the wave?"
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"Along the shore I wander, free, A beach comber at Waikiki, Where time worn souls who seek in vain, Hearts ease, in vagrant, wondering train. A beach comber from choice, am I, Content to let the world drift by, Its strife and envy, pomp and pride, I've tasted, and am satisfied."
Tom Blake
Mount Maunganui NZ
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Sir John Templeton:
"The idea that an individual can find God. . . . . . is like a wave thinking it can find the sea."
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